Read post 2 & 3
Agree with that. No resistors needed IF you have reliable understandable specs from the driver BUT if you haven't you can protect your LED "module", prototype it and always update later. As said LEDs should always have a current limiter and without knowing how driver does this...
For the light output you need to translate the tube to lumens and then find lumen rating of LED at supplied values.
Then find actual wattage consumed from that plus power supply to see if ahead.
if you can't fill in the LED values and then mess with voltage that horse is digging it's heels in deep to be obstructive, especially when your first three paragraphs were covered in post 8 so clearly adding nothing
Long strings pushes up voltage required as each LED causes a voltage drop and...
Tail lights usually fail in 2 ways
1) adding the convenient extra earth pin fixes the earth pin in socket on car loom
2) LED failure - plenty of how to and people offering as a service
Draw circuit
Power circuit
That horse can't drink
Just being awkward.
Also LED will draw no more than it required with a resistor in front so unless a resistor goes open no issue
We also no LEDs have pretty wide tolerances
However, 1 "serial string" with resistor failing open does not...
E9x was a step change
E36/46 are basically same suspension and tech end to end
Ironically electricals are very reliable and parts are reasonable wear ant tear apart from £400 door seals on the 46 ;)
I tend to feel the E46 is the cut off point for a quality car worth keeping
M3 is my nice car bought in 2012
E36 94 325 and 95 328 are our daily transport and snow mobiles when required on summer tyres
(Unused tyre chains in boot)
Oh and forget fitters hiding parts, it's an engine. Form follows function.
keep runs of vacuum pipe and LPG from vaporiser to solenoids and nozzles as short as possible.
It's probably the difference between lag and perf drops and seamless. Mine is fitted for shortest runs.
Sequential...
Buy big old top spec cheap, run it cheap
And either have more disposable cash / better standard of living or savings which is still HQOL
Just watch it pay for itself initially and the car too if you like
^ Them still down to what I said earlier, design circuit
Then but a step down to match
Or go high on power / voltage spec and use those values in circuit calculator to match
The output in link is given 12v hence used as sample value but also I pointed out the ease of change.
Put the voltage as supply voltage in and it'll just adjust the resistors to suit the drop required
I don't se the issue TBH
you know the LED values
And you can vary the supply value to see if suitable / alterations in seconds
The script in here is reusable but our own values in
I did the maths and the guy has LPG on everything now including his old 330 still
Lot of fuel snobbery in the thread from those with no knowledge
Tail end posts are his long term experience...
Looks like you did the maths
The filling issue is generally a HUGE misconception
For a start never go out the way.
You do big journeys you will pas or be near one regularly
A lot of motorway services aren't even hugely overpriced
Additionally the folk that do valour and BBQ has usually have...
Pop say 12v supply
3.2v drop
30ma draw
And 30'leds in here
http://ledcalculator.net/
It hasn't taken the sample I worked and then push voltage up and you may fondness it goes from parallel to serial