2D is like drawing but on a computer. You do the thinking and there is no easy way to visualise a 3D object. Maybe that’s fine if you just want profiles cut and won’t be bending them etc. 3D lets you form the shape you want using different features which are generally easy to use. You can view...
I used to service these for a living and have designed a vaporising burner for a uk manufacturer. A lot of the above is correct including the tendency for the larger bore pipes to block up quicker than the smaller bore pipes. This is due to the oil hanging around in the large bore pipe longer...
Interesting. The old top bushes had been shortened and the off cuts used as spacers on the top yoke. You’re right about the tubes being thin - about 1.9mm. Not sure on correct bush length but they seem about right judging by the parts diagrams.
Yep exactly as Seadog says, the top bush is held in place in the top of the slider by a wire circlip. If I had to make a new top lug (tapered top of the slider) it would be doable but quite complex.
The wear is from the bottom bush sliding up and down in the middle portion of the tube and the...
That top bush slides on the stanchion so the maximum extension is with the two bushes butted up against each other. Minimum extension is with the nut on the stanchion bottomed out in the slider. Im thinking of maybe turning the OD down where the mud guard mounts go on and welding those on before...
The damping cone passes through a hole in the nut on the bottom end of the stanchion so alignment there is critical. The stanchion will bottom out in the slider with the bottom stanchion nut sat around the cone. I’m guessing the end casting and tube are some how socketed together to help with...
Not phoned but showing as no longer available at Draganfly. I’ll check TMS but googling isn’t showing them as available anywhere. I could maybe adapt some from a different BSA but NOS ones are around £120 each so I’d rather not.
A few more pics. It looks like with the tailstock overhanging slightly I’d get enough travel to bore the full length of the tube section. I guess it would need to be very light cuts, low speed and fine feed but that’s ok as I could get on with other stuff at the same time. The tube section...
Cheers. The forks are off my C15t. The RH lower seems to be the factory one but the LH one in the picture has been modified by the plate type mudguard mount being cut off and those buttons welded on (badly) to make it the same as the stock one. Not sure which model bike that ones off originally.
Yep, steel lowers/sliders look like they were originally bored out to ID from the tool marks. Tube is 1 5/8” (41.3mm) and around 37.45 ID. Having cleaned up the joints the bottom lug is welded on and the top lug is tack welded and brazed.
Tube wall is less than 2mm and there is some heavy scoring. Also the bottom end lug/casting incorporates a damping cone that sticks up the tube by several inches so no access to get a tool to the bottom.
Been going through the forks on my old BSA and found the insides of the sliders badly scored and worn. New sliders for this aren’t available and any old ones will probably be just as bad.
im thinking of having a go at removing the ends/lugs and replacing the tube section. Seems like with some...