On this one a bit of gasket making and recent findings after I got it running and warmed up.
Rarely need to make a gasket but decided to make one for intake manifold flange. Used a small blade knife and a small socket to punch holes:
Got it back in:
I started the engine and let I run up...
Thanks JP! I went possibly too long route with studs but can say that second round of final torque of 95 Nm was IMO justified because some of them were going in at least 2-3 Nm after first round. Have to see how they are after warm up check if I get to there and how they will be in long term as...
Hi again. Weather went wintery and throwed some snow, was wresting with manifolds guess the rest.
Ported and gasket matched intake manifold also did some smoothing work to oil return channel:
Put a small chamfer on TB mouth:
Turbo oil return flange before modding, it doesn't match to the...
Got some progress with the head job.
Bit of parts list that I chose for this: Head gasket Goetze, ARP head studs, valve stem seals and cam seals from BMW, intake and exhaust gaskets from Elring.
Head assembled, valves adjusted to 0.25 mm and bolted down:
ARP suggest tightening studs in three...
Removing parts for cylinder head removal, mainly because of small external water leak and valve seal job and chasing small ponies from dozen or so places...:
Head has been worked on past somewhere in 2006-2007, most likely got everything new. Valves were possibly leaking, had to do fair amount...
Throwing few pictures of E30 again. Car has done good but of course had to make small repairs and development:
Got new inner and outer ball joints for MOT:
This will show how old inner ones were bad, they are not loose from the ball but oval shapes are worn. It's hard to notice without shaker...
Nice to hear about inspiration I appreciate it a lot.
Made a DIY strut brace for E36. Using 3 mm steel and 25 mm tubing, welded with TIG. Bolt holes were recessed with simple steel plate dies and hydraulic press.
Took few pics after spray can paint job:
Thanks. There has been times where I felt like selling mine when doing projects like this.
Work with old BMW has kept going.
Paint in the bonnet was showing age it was like rough sand paper, I tried polishing it in the spring without much luck so old paint wet sanded down with 600 grit, filled...
Did quick scuff and shoot for sill covers while they were still removed:
Next some my favorite work with chassis reinforcement. Went and pulled front subframe:
Made doubling plates from 2 mm steel for engine mount bolt holes:
And 3 mm outer boxing plates, corners left open to improve...
Pulled some of the front end to pieces.
Front fenders had some rust ended needing some small patches welded to the wheel sides:
Front clip primed:
Fenders primed:
New paint sprayed:
Fenders were hanged for painting:
That's all for now. Cheers and thanks!
More door pictures as they got done finally.
Doors were removed to give better access to the insides and front edges:
Rust has gone under the seam sealer at the front doors and traveled further than it looks:
Affected seam sealer removed for treatment:
There is possibly few ways how to...
Another set of pictures coming up.
Boot lid got paint:
Now working with doors that had some rust spots from stone chips:
Treated with rust converter and primed with coat of epoxy:
Some time ago it came to my knowledge that boot lid on E36 had a tendency to develop cracks where latch will bolt and if it get bad enough latch itself may brake.
Sure enough cracks were developing also on my car:
Cracks were stop drilled with 2 mm drill bit and made slight groove to improve...
Rust has been growing where eyes can't see, behind sill covers where rear jacking point is located:
Inner structure of the jacking point was still strong metal, it got wire wheeled and treated with rust converter before patching the hole:
Fabricated patch panel with some holes for plug...
Hi. I have been again working with my E36.
First couple older pictures from the stock pile:
Fabricated reinforcement plates to the rear trailing arm mounting points from 3 mm steel:
Got a BMW limited slip differential:
More recent pictures.
Already patched small rust hole from rear...
I also got one 50ST from their site. Machine seems nice, work leads were long enough and it came with AG60 torch. Made some test cuts to rusty 10 mm steel and it went pretty easily. Some hose clamps had to be replaced with high quality Swedish made clamps nothing new there.
Has anyone changed from basic PT31 torch to AG-60 style torch? Some have said it would give more cutting power and longer consumable life? AG60 torches can be had for a tenner from China with better looking trigger as well, but will the fittings fit? I don't have a plasma but was wondering how...