Cheers - that's the thing that bothers me the most! How long will EN 1090 last (If we stay in Europe) before it's tinkered with again and yet more goalposts are moved at more cost etc.
Thanks.
Clearly, I'm not going to proceed with this as I'm not 1090 certified. We're purely a small sub-contract fabrication business, not design, hence my mention of involving a structural engineer to provide calcs etc.
It's something I am now going to look into more closely. It will hinder...
This 1090 is becoming a pain in the **** and I have no idea whether it's worth me acquiring it or not.
We're currently having a drive to pick up new customers. I've had an enquiry through today from a potential new customer for a platform. We build them all the time as a subcontract...
Never used flap disks, as said above, too expensive for lifespan. Grinder for scale, 36 grit zirconia sanding pad for rust and wire wheel for cleaning welds.
Anti-spatter's *****. Only ever use it in jigs.
I remove spatter with an old file with a taper ground on one side of the end. Also use an old stainless steel rule for lighter spatter such as that attached to machined shafts.
Mod: Edited for language
I took delivery of my first bike an hour ago. A Yamaha FZ6 Fazer.
Got my CBT lined up on Friday. Can't wait to then rattle off mod 1&2 and get out on the swine.
Those are covered by roller shutters now, hence the exposed hinges.
If someone's gonna kick a Stihlsaw in at my house to do away with my bike they'll either get away with it, regardless of whether they cut the hinges and internal deadbolts or rip a hole in the plate to get inside, or they're...
I'm about to buy a motorbike and my garage doors, both front and rear need replacing. The rear because it's rotten and the front because it's ill-fitting and a bit tired. It's a tin up and over job.
I looked at new up and overs and automated rollers. I can't see much security in any of them...
It sounds like either slight zinc contamination, as explained above, or the tip clogging slightly, then clearing itself as the weld progresses. Doesn't sound like a travel speed or feed rate issue.
Sounds like you tip may be clogging or your wire feed rollers are a little too slack and your wire is slipping?
You're better off learning on something a bit thicker than a crisp packet too! Your welder can kick out 180 amps so if ypu can get hold of something around 4mm thick you'll find it...
Cheers. This one should be done in a couple of days.
Being a bit of a sad b****** - I've just been cutting something so thought I'd prep a couple of the 30mm offcuts with a view to replicating the butt welds above, same settings and method as above, then chop it up and acid etch to have a...
I did, of course, create the worst welds for the joint I decided to photograph! Bit of a banana going on in that last cap above. The smoke billowing off welds of this power doesn't half clog up your field of view. Well, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
Anyway, there are five of these...
So, the weld to the left in the above picture is at finished size and the weld to the right is a little below the surface of the two plates to be joined. One final cap and this face is done. If required, this can then be dressed flush but that's of no consequence on this particular job so the...
So now, those two welds have created another nice 'V' to fill. This time I'll be building a bead on the left, slightly overlapping the top edge of the weld prep, protruding just above the level of the parent metal and overlapping the left half of the previous run, which will then create a...