Not fixed, by a long stretch but the door now closes and the rest will be someone else's problem. The floor needs to come up to examine the extent of the rot properly and that's no small job with the interior in place.
A lot of the rot cut out
And some new steel put in.
Welds are a bit...
Thanks for everyone's replies. I've pointed the guy in the direction of the correct replacement panel (only about £60) but pointed out there's probably a lot of work involved in fitting it. Have agreed to secure the door in the mean time but basically said I don't want to touch the rest of the...
Undoubtedly. No idea how far under the floor the rust extends. I think pending consultation with the guy, I'll secure the door but that's the extent of the involvement I want. This is a "while you have the van could you just..." sort of a job. An I think the answer is no.
I've been asked to repair the bottom part of the rear door latch on a Mercedes Sprinter.
No. It's not that simple. Cutting back the badly fitted floor revealed this...
The flooring had been screwed down, through the door seal, so the doors couldn't shut properly and certainly couldn't...
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/vice-repair-worth-trying-or-not.97301/#post-1469447
The repair on this one is still going strong. Can't tell to look at it. Not sure how much abuse it will take.
After a long while not doing much with this I had a job that resulted in me having a lot of aluminium offcuts so I've decided to take the opportunity to get back on it.
I believe @Richard. does TIG lessons and from what I've read it would be well worth your while travelling to him for a session. I could have remembered this wrong but I think he's based somewhere near Cambridge. It's something I've considered a lot and he's much further from me than you.
This is the way forward. Get some scraps and have a go. I find TIG brazing a very enjoyable process. I'm far from a pro though. Lower power than welding because, as said, you don't want to melt the parent metal. The process is very similar to TIG welding though and the technique translates well...
I have another question. If I do short bursts (say 2-3cm at a time) and pause to cool I get nice shiny silver welds. If I keep going I seem to lose shielding behind the cup and get a dull grey weld or at best multicoloured.
Do I need to speed up? Slow down? Gas issue? If I get a chance I'll do...
The cable gets pushed through the middle but doesn't pull back out unless you depress the button to release it. Trying to find out what these are called...