Hi AndersK, I hope you didnt think I was being funny! :ashamed::doh:thanks to your advice it was much easier to take the display out than the way I would have tried. What I was trying to say was it was such an easy and quick fix - 4 (5) screws and a DIP switch to change the XTT202P to a...
Thanks richard, that makes a lot of sense, I will try disconnecting the pedal and see if I can select 4T, not that I've got to a level yet where I need it, I can MIG ok but need to practice a lot more with TIG, but I am curious if for the sake of throwing a dip switch and making the pedal...
So my foot pedal now has the correct B503 on the pedal, the original B203 on the current adjuster and wired as per AndersK sketch. And it works!!
Setting the current control to max gives 10amps at idle and 200amps at full throttle (pedal).
I can select anything from 10amps to 200amps and the...
Bladevane - Thanks for checking, that's a life saver, I was just about to fit a second 20K so now I will swap them both out.
AndersK thanks for that info and all the previous posts that have helped me a lot.
I will update with where I get to.
Just found this thead https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/foot-pedal-tig-welder-advice-pls.77508/ It talks about a Balmer "MAXXITIG 200P AC/DC " which looks very similar and in the post by Dalzani Lima he explains there is an internal dip switch that can change the function of the foot...
That sounds like where I am trying to get to.
AndersK wrote in that post "Looking at the markings the foot pot says B503 and the other B203", but on mine the foot control is the B203 so 20K so I wonder if they are both B203's or if mine got swopped at some stage.
What is weird though is my...
Thanks Bladevane, I will probably get used to it, so are you adjusting the amperage before welding or adjusting it depending what the puddle is doing as you go?
I was using it today with a Parweld torch with amperage control and it was fine (The pedal is dismantled awaiting the pot) Its...
I found a couple of good threads on this:
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/parweld-xtt-202.84920/
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/parweld-foot-pedal.61040/
If I had seen them before I might have had second thoughts about the Parweld XTT202P and I almost bought the Thermal...
I finally upgraded my little DC Inverter Fusion 200PHF TIG to a decent (for my budget) AC/DC welder, a Parweld XTT202P and began hooking it up yesterday.
I've got a foot pedal with it and when I plugged it in, the settings I could alter became extremely limited and controlled completely by the...
New torch fitted and everything is working again.
I guess over the years, the way Euro torch connections stick out it probably gets clouted now and again. This was a Murex torch so could have been the original, could be 20+ years old.
Thanks to everyone for all the help
Without this forum and the people willing to share their knowledge and help, I wouldnt have stood a chance at diagnosing the problem. Thanks to the helpful suggestions from Eddie49, Stanbester and Seadog and following their systematic advice I think I have found the problem.
I opened up the...
Once again Eddie49 thanks for continuing help.
Here are the results:
The three tests you suggested with the 8 power settings
I am now stripping the EuroTorch to see if I can find anything there. I cleaned up the connections inside the connector and the thorch but no change.
I'll post what I...
Thanks Seadog, when I reversed the leads, each time, there was no reading - is that the same as reversing the polarity? The erroneous 446 reading might just have been how the meter settled.
So does that mean that the bridge rectifier on my Murex 135 is working correctly?
If so what else might...
So I think I might have tested the rectifier, following guidance from other posts, I dont know if the attached photograph shows the results clearly enough, but the Rectifier is in two plates and I used a multimeter (I think!!) on the Diode/continuity setting and got these results either nothing...
I held the button in on the contactor but still no Arc.
I took out the Inductor to have a better look and it all seems sound, it was the plug weld as said by eddie49, and the copper strips are all solid.
The rectifier has 12 diodes and visually they all seem ok.
I have uploaded some detailed photos.
Thanks Stanbester - I had a good look at the rectifier and made sure all the connections were sound, but I dont really know how to check the rectifier - what would this involve?
Having just posted and looked more closely at the pictures, can anyone tell me in the fourth picture the "windings" that look a bit like a transformer to me, that goes to the Earth clamp, in the centre of the bracket where the hole is looks like burning - is that normal? should it look like...
If anyone has got any ideas why my trusty Murex Tradesmig 135 has stopped working I would really appreciate it.
I've had this machine for years, bought it second hand and not used it in a while.
Everything seemed fine, got gas and wire feed, can hear the relay kicking in on trigger but I get a...
If anyone is interested I have fixed the problem(s). The problem was on the PCB there is a transistor V20 - According to the manual
"Transistor V20 switches on or off the output of IC2 as well as turning on the braking transistor V23 when it is required to stop the motor."
"When the torch...