The only solution to fix properly is to replace the inlet manifold and if I’m honest I can’t be bothered. Plus it’s a bit of an expense for a silly pin:(
I will see if I can put some dimensions up when I get the chance to strip it again as I’ll need to remove the half I refitted lol.
Cheers folks
It’s an electronic egr, and unfortunately will flag up the eml over time due to it not seeing a pressure change at the manifold when it should. It’ll detect, ‘insufficient flow’ calculated by the map sensor. Otherwise I would blank it and leave it be.
Hi guys, haven't posted in a while due to work commitments/away from home but I am on the prowl for a homer? paid for of course.
I need a small pin manufactured for my egr valve on my transit connect as it has snapped (fairly common problem).
Thank you
Hi guys,
I was wondering if anyone on the forum with a large would be kind enough to turn a small piece for a brake bleeder.
The current part is made of plastic and I'm having trouble getting the correct size seal for it, so at the moment I hVe used electrical tape to pack out the centre bore...
Thank you for the reply.
I was going to do some measurements and things inside the terminal box but I just wanted to get it back together and fitted to try out my new air filter/regulator and check for leaks..
I quickly done some current measurements with a clamp on meter. it appears...
ahh right. ok thanks (I have just noticed the arrows...duhh lol)
I'm still trying to figure out what does what in the terminal box and I'm beginning to wonder if someone has added 3 of the capacitors for some reason?
the bottom capacitor bolted on the outside is connected to terminals 5 (live...
exactly what my thoughts. I am just uploading a couple of pics with the end cover off. Im also confused as to why one of the capacitors on the side (run capacitors) has 4 wires and the other has 2?
copied from wikipedia..
In capacitor-start designs, the second winding is disconnected once the motor is up to speed, usually either by a centrifugal switch acting on weights on the motor shaft or a thermistor which heats up and increases its resistance, reducing the current through the second...
I dont have a picture of the internals, definitely no electrical switch of sorts inside though. Just the mechanical part on the commutator. I'm wondering if someone has played about with this before.. I would have thought it would have burnt out if the coil wasnt disconnecting though..
I found...
cheers for the reply.
I'm confused by the centrifugal switch though as it has a mechanical part but no electrical part. so when it spins up and is forced out, i cant see that it would affect anything
Hi guys,
Looking for a bit of advice on my hydrovane compressor motor. Its an old 1985 3hp single phase motor. I have just stripped it down to replace bearings and rewired the terminal box due to it being very old and most of the insulation had fallen off the cores leaving loads of bare copper...
With my hydrovane, before I plan on running it I open the drain valve and run it for 5-10 mins without any pressure before I need it. It's surprising how hot it gets. Another 4 mins to fill the tank after that.
I have just recently drained the oil and changed the filter, no signs of mayo in...
as Brightspark has already pointed out, your pressure switch is wired incorrectly! you have a dead short on live and neutral - thats why it tripped your breaker.