Did you sort this?
I'm looking for the same 5 pin plug. I think it's called an XTi connector
10 k Pot between pins 1 and 2 and wiper to pin 4. On/off switch wired to pins 3 and 5. I need it for my TIG torch finger pressure current controller.
Where did you buy the plug and how much?
Yes I agree. I have a Murex ac220a now rebadged as an ESAB caddy. That is a CAN bus machine. You can buy the CAN interface board that goes inside the foot pedal though if you want to make a different remote.
Crikey it sounds like a right balls ache that machine!! Doesn't seem like any ergo thought was put into the user control software.
Is the foot pedal a simple pot and micro switch or does it have a CAN bus interface to the set?
I buy rods in bulk from a local supplier. SIF area bit pricey I have found.
I can't understand why you don't have up an down slope control on 2T. What TIG set is it ??
Yes 4043 is a good general purpose filler rod but it does lack strength. It's good for cast as it doesn't tend to stress crack after cooling as it is quite maleable. It is also good for some heat treated aircraft grade aluminium welding for the same reasons. The grade of your MIG reel is also...
You can never do without enough clamps when you are welding, I must have at least 30 or 40 clamps, mostly G type all different sizes. If working on a metal bench, clamp a length of box section to the surface then clamp your work to the box section in a position you are really comfortable...
I nearly always use white tip Zirconiatrd tungsten. I find it balls nicely and develops an even arc cone but I also use them with a gas lens and a 7 or 8 cup. 2% blue Lanthanated work nearly as well but 1.5% don't seem as stable.
You will find in practical situations that you won't have the...
Your butt weld did not penetrate to the rear probably because your steel backing plate bridged the gap between the two plates you were welding. This is a no no. You should always leave a gap on the rear. By all means use heat sink bars or plates to the rear but leave a gap between them at the...
I wouldn't worry too much about the crater at the end of the run as this can be touched in on a second spot weld. A crater is normally controlled by having a nice slow taper of current on 'button' or 'pedal' release that you can set up on your TIG set (ramp down) so you don't have to control...
There should be no reason HF start should not work on a.c. and aluminium. Sometimes I have to touch the tungsten down and then raise before pressing the HF start switch. It's like it needs to equalise the static voltage potential between the tungsten and the workpiece before HF start will...
Thanks jrwhalley, I read (well quickly scanned) that long thread this afternoon. It's goes on a bit doesn't it? It's funny reading ideas from non electronic engineers evolving an ugly solution by committee. I was enlightened to read that control of current from use of a pressure sensitive...
Yes I used a FSR and linearised using a small PIC at the torch end but sent serial digital data back to the Tig set via a small screened pair cable run inside my torch cable zipper cover. I decode at the tig set end (using another PIC) and provide the hf start contact and linear 0 to XV drive...
The advantages of TigButton over the CK Steady Grip is that it will directly replace your existing torch button and is transferable between torches if you have more than one. The steady grip is very bulky so you will quickly find jobs where you can't get it in to perform a weld.
Have you looked at either the TigButton or Touch4 finger or thumb control these work by pressure applied to the button on the torch much better than wheels or sliders. The TigButton is my preference as its completely analog and smooth current control just like a foot pedal.