Theoretically it's possible but this is an additional radiator connected in series with a bigger one in a low pressure cooling circuit. There shouldn't be a big delta in temperatures passing through it.
Mission critical application, I'd start again but this is a prototype.
Not stupid at all. Positioner aka turntable is a rotating plate (often with a chuck on it) attached to a motor that is used for welding of round parts. Next best thing to having a robot welding your parts. Prop your hand, turn it on and feed the wire. Depending on the size of your work some of...
All good suggestions and something to keep in mind for the future. This is the back side of the rad that is going to be covered by a fan shroud so I didn't mind the messy look of it. Just so it doesn't leak water. When I have a bit of time on my side I'll play with lumiweld et al just to get the...
Thanks for all the suggestions. Thought I'd give an update on this saga as it came to an end.
Had to step away from the rad on the day and weld something else (intentionally more than anything). Came back to it all the next day, practiced laying and arcing up on a test piece - unfortunately...
School boy error. Welded one tank to the new radiator core fine, then moved to do the other side and discovered that I must have moved the rad in process and it arced on one of the tubes and made a pin hole in it.
Pretty bummed about this given that I've made a mental note of making sure the...
I wanted to avoid DIYing another table as the last one I made ended up with a bowed steel sheet as that's how it came from my supplier. It's acceptably flat for general metal work, tear downs and grinding but for welding longer material (tubing in my case) I wanted something ready made, surface...
Hello,
I'm after a welding table with holes. Around 2x1m. Nothing super accurate but reasonably precise and square. I've seen a few of these modular tables on ebay over the years delivered flat packed for IKEA style assembly/welding. They seem to be 6mm thick.
I suppose the question I want to...
I use gold 2.4mm for everything as I've got a life long supply of them. Works well for both stainless and ali, no problem here.
For stainless I use a 9- and lately 17-type torch with flex head, size 12 cup and a button cap. For ali it's almost always size 5 cup, long cap in a chunky 26-type...
I'm getting a little fed up with my setup and need an advice.
I currently use a HandyTIG Lorch machine, something I bought on a promo a couple of years ago. It's a good little welder but has a few quirks, one of which I believe might be a pedal that doesn't strike an arc every time. Annoying...
My Fobco Star is missing a pair of stopper/travel limiting nuts as well as the nut that holds the vertical ruler itself.
Anyone know the thread/pitch/size of those nuts by any chance?
Thanks.
So I went ahead and gave the jaws to my buddy with a CNC shop to replicate and serrate. I will then forge them the best I can. Will probably be a few weeks before the vice is back in one piece again as it’s on the back burner at the moment. Will post some pictures when done.
Update:
Provisionally sold the vice to a mate who runs a busy garage and needed something super heavy duty. Whilst waiting for him to pop round and collect it, dragged the vice to the front of my unit, used it a few times instead of making a mess around my workbench and it’s such a nice, stout...
I had this situation a couple of times when fabricating an exhaust. The large vice sticks out much further than the other two but at the expense of being much bigger!
Yeah, it's a dovetail design. It has no wobble when the jaw moves which is a bonus. My other two vices are of the same design. Very smooth and precise in operation.
Here she comes:
The "small" vices are 4 & 5". I'm fabbing a new welding table right now so took them off. Had to drag the big girl out of her storage room to take the pictures.