Email me : Dave@woodfieldwelding.com and I'll send you a PDF of the manual. Be advised, it contains a heap of useful info but the pictures are poor, as this is a scan of a very old document. Warning: Thoroughly read and understand the instructions on wiring to the mains. This machine is not a...
As a much earlier post points out, if you have a switch setting marked something like (((-(((, this is the 'Stitch' or 'Pulse setting and is designed to give you short bursts of weld. If you can, select a setting marked with a short straight line, which should give you a continuous weld while...
Hi RaymondI. If I remember correctly, the F40 wire feeder unit was made by Technical Arc in York. From memory, the internal connections are easy to understand and I think there was a simple connection diagram inside the unit. Of course there will not be any info on the electronics, as Tech Arc...
I have a fair amount of info on these machines, unfortunately it's stored on my work computer and I am at home right now. However, if you PM your email address, I will send you what I have when I get into work next week. I know I have circuit diagrams for all the PCBs and from memory, I think...
Major problem with these older Ceboras, is failure of the small transformer on the PCB. If the mains supply is on but Green LED on the front panel, near the wire speed knob, is not illuminated, then 99% it's the transformer. This assumes that you have checked the mains cable connections to the...
Well done eddie. I've been telling people this for years - check the soldered joints every time! I have repaired so many of these machines by using a magnifying glass and a soldering iron. Probably only fitted 3 new components in all my years. But still folks insist on changing...
Not terribly helpful but I recently repaired a Cebora Push-Pull gun for a customer. Very basic electrics, small pot for wire speed and switches for trigger control and up/down of current. CAN bus system a bit advanced for the older Ceboras, not even sure if they use it now. However, try...
Blue squirrel
PM your email address and I will send the info you need. Not sure if user manual will help you with your welding but from memory, it contains a few tips. 200 is the same layout as the 300 but with a slightly smaller main transformer and rectifier. Still needs a fair sized supply...
Nice to see the end results of a conversation. Don't often manage to help somebody over 't internet and see this, unlike my day job, when I fix a machine and get told 'It hasn't run that well since it was new'. Good to get feedback.
Happy New Year
Dave
These are 'Choke' connections. A choke is like a transformer but with only one wire wound round an iron core, with one or more points of exit at different lengths from the start of the winding. In your case, you have 3 connections (or tappings). The Choke is a form of smoothing for the output...
Same as I said in response to your other post;
Pm me your email and I'll send you all the circuit info I have. Machine too old for IGBTs. I think you mean SCR block at back of machine near main rectifier.
Dave
Pm me your email and I'll send you all the circuit info I have. Machine too old for IGBTs. I think you mean SCR block at back of machine near main rectifier.
Dave
Contactor is controlled by the PCB on this machine (same as most welders), so 240v comes from mains supply where it is connected to the contactor, into a small transformer that supplies the PCB with 24V (AC). I have a circuit diagram for this machine which I will happily email if you PM me with...
Hi Jay
Bit late to this thread, so I hope this is relevant. I have Owners manual and also service manual which I am happy to email if you PM me your email address. Meanwhile, HF problems often caused by circuit board PCB2 - smaller of the two in the box upper area of right hand side. Relay that...
Good news indeed. I am not too surprised that the wire feed is a bit 'choppy' at low speeds as the PCB illustrated seems to be very basic and has only one thyristor. This type of speed contrl was/is often used in cheaper MIGs and they all exhibited the same problem. You pays your money and makes...
Oh yesss, very much still alive but very busy, with little time to visit the forum: PM's always welcome if I can help.
Moving on - When I get back in the office on monday, I will check the Max-Arc files and see if I still have the info and if you PM me your email, I'll pass it on. Meanwhile, the...
The type of rectifier you have, was a very early version and the diode packs I mentioned above, do fail after many years. Unfortunately they are no longer made, so you will need to replace the complete assembly with a 'plate' style rectifier bridge if you are sure that this rectifier has failed...