I've tried the electric sealey and found it to be heavy, my air Mirka air wil rip filer down with an 80 grit easily
I found the shop river ones to be ok
I've always used Tiger seal or Granville PU and they have lasted over 20 years for sure, tried some of the cheaper ones on occasion and found them...
I never understood why so many shades of same name, they could of easily just given another name
I think if I remember right there is something like 14 shades of diamond white !!!
Fiberglass should be primed with epoxy primer first, you won't get get fish eyes then, never had it happen ever
Personally I wouldn't of used brake cleaner, far more aggressive than panel wipe
Gravitex will be absolutely fine if you want to avoid 2K, it worked for years before they introduced Raptor
You can buy it in litres nick
Thanks bud, appreciate the kind comments, we will see how I progress
Gravitex is single pack, Raptor is 2 pack, raptor will be tougher.
For years I used 3 coats of lechlar epoxy followed by 2-3 coats of gravitex and...
I've had a Bosch set for a few years and they are pretty good but not great on stainless.
For stainless I use Milwaukee or Starret.
Can go a little hard if left for long time
I use TORCO MPZ OR RED LINE ASSEMBLY LUBE or LUCAS OIL, most of the performance engine builders I know use these makes, these will stay stuck to...
The tint is what tints it, you don't need much at all, no more than 10%
Don't know if my reply fell on deaf ears but it's so very simple, just add 10% tint and it's done !!! It really is that easy
Just ask your supplier for some tinter, you don't need a lot, they usually give it free
Depending on where you are my my mate has full broaching facilities and can broach key ways no problem, he has done lots for me.
I just use 2 pieces of tube with a fish mouth on each end that slide inside each other as a measure, hold in position and tape to hold if you see...
Easiest way is to use a tube notcher, you can buy them for £50 ish and perfect joints every time
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