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Some of that older stuff is great , I sometimes use an old yellow Esab set and its silky smooth to weld with , its yellow and white , quite tall and skinny , but very handy on car body work.

personally ,,, id take the wood off and go with the thickest lump of steel I could buy , failing that , take the wood off , and cut up a length of 40x80 4mm to make slats for the top , either with or without gaps depending on what suits you the best . then bung some 1mm or alloy in front of the...

its like the little magnets that were sold to go on fuel lines to improve economy , I did a roadshow tour with a guy selling those many years ago ,, it was beyond belief , he used to sell them by the van load.

I run 14/40 mineral in my boxers engines , but fully synth with friction modifiers in the final drive hubs, no bother so far , but no where near those miles , your getting into intergalactic cruising there .. :thumbup:

Audi had huge problems caused by long life service intervals , it was on the older 2.5 v6 engines that got a bad reputation for chocolate cams , it wasnt the cams at fault it was the 15k oil change . Trouble is that shredded oil for example where mechanical chopping has taken place can still...

handy , many thanks

Ive never bought into the long life myth ,,, oil is a cheap mechanic. As long as oil meets the spec I dont care where it comes from or what it says on the tin. Some times I swap the oil filters out mid service as I think its very overlooked , oils these days are better than they ever were and...

As nice today as it was then . Nearly.

no the dirt and air gaps work like a double glazed window and stop it working as well as a big solid lump , think sort of lasagne and you get the idea

nope ,,, no where near heavy enough ,, bus bar is what you need , spend thirty or forty quid now and you will never regret it take my word for it , if you cant find any like that , buy a copper mallet and use the head you can flap disc it to have some flat faces ,,,

as many here know , I like acf 50 ,,, from a land rover welder ,, lol but anything except waxol .

i use a lump of bus bar and the old vintage mole grips with the two leg stand off on them , mig or tig and never have any bother . All this stuff is handy on the perfect fresh and easy to reach jobs they use to demonstrate on , in real life Im not just as sure I would be trusting the no hole ...

lump of old bus bar out of an industrial distro cabinet , all you need is a lump about six inches long , couple of inches wide and half inch thick if you can get it , or there abouts . ideally a couple or more of those as sooner or later you will bevel edges and put a radius on a corner to get...

think about trying acf 50 ,,, Waxol really isnt what it used to be.

Thats not too bad at all , do a good clean up with a wire brush in a grinder , make sure you dont take out too much at once and mess with door gaps etc ,,, get some 1.2mm to fab parts , and have a practice for a while welding that gauge , sounds like you do more heavy stuff . a decent hunk of...

why not bring the middle piece right down to the bottom of the pic , and trim the very bottom bit shorter to suit .

theres a roll up ladder system thats specially for this set up , if its only a fire escape hes after , it all lives in a box fixed to the wall under the window , and it unrolls out of the window if its needed be a bugger if the window underneath was spitting out flames of course ,,,

do a quick listen and make sure gas isnt just leaking away from the backed off fitting , or blow smoke past it if your a smoker ,, etc ,,, just in case the gas is weeping out all the time a bottle will turn from full to empty that way and you wont get a lot of value for your hard earned.

buy once , buy a bigger machine than you think you will need , bigger machines can be turned down to suit your current supply , , pun intended ,, but you cant turn a smaller machine up further than max if and when you get a better power supply , they dont go up to 11.

i use a 6.6 or 7 mm drill bit , and weld from one side across to the other rather than trying to start in the middle , if i can get a copper backer on I do that too as it lets me use more heat , you need things to be clean and to be touching , without trying to sound smart , practice a bit more...