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You can get direct to metal DTM clearcoat, not sure if you can get it in a can though

80 grit should be easily enough, when you say palm sand and then a orbital sander they are both the same, a palm sander is just a small orbital sander, do you mean orbital sander then a DA sander? Certainly if your using any sander with 80g it should look really rough and be ideal for a good key

It's only a cheap one from Nuagain paints, about £28.00 for 2 litres, mixed 2 to 1 with activator, splash of thinners depending on the gun, painter, conditions, if you want a bit more bling you can add 20% clear but it not normally necessary

This is direct gloss, TE20 cap at 2 bar, first coat was full fan 2 1/2 turns on fluid, 2nd coat same but 3 turns out , the finish is pretty flat which of course is not always what you want

That's exactly why i wrote my post in the first place, it sounds like it fits the bill for you perfectly

I normally always keep mine on full fan with fluid between 2 and 3 depending on what i am doing, tip size, cap etc, I'm mainly doing motorcycle stuff

I guess it depends on what 1k clear you use, I've only ever used Upol 2085 which doesn't craze or crack, yes it duller than a 2k and not as hard wearing but it allows someone to use it without specialist ppe and is a good cover for cellulose imo.

Yes, I've got a couple of copies, they do work but aren't the same quality as the original, they are heavy, up by around 200g and the air caps aren't as good as the original, in fact the caps are all the same regardless of what is written on them and somewhere around a HV25

I have a T110 cap and yes it is a flatter finish than the TE20 although it's slower, I normally run it around 2 bar which is around the recommended pressure by Devilbiss, that's with a HS clear

Cellulose is not particularly hard wearing so any abrasive polish will remove some which is what you see on the cloth, a none abrasive polish shouldn't remove the paint but because none lacquered Cellulose is not UV protected it will dull over time. This is why in my opinion its better to...

Lovely colour, good to see your liking the pro lite, i have a few and love them, really easy to use and so versatile with all the cap and tip options

I sometimes use a 1k acrylic clear over cellulose, it does give it a shine above what you would normally get with cellulose on it's own but not as much as 2k clear which sounds like what you want. I have tested various painted surfaces with a 1k acrylic clear that has been on for a week or more...

The Upol panel wipe you have will be fine, i use microfiber clothes if the surface is ok, then just wash them when you do a wash. Pure Alcohol is good for plastics as it less prone to static but is just as good as a panel wipe, add a little deionized water to slow it down if needed, getting back...

I've got a 90L belt drive from SGS and it's been fine, a slight air leak but not enough to do anything about it, I also have a twin piston direct drive as per the one the opening post was looking at, they are very nosey, belt drive is certainly the way to go. Incidentally, the first belt drive...

Presumably the air regulator on the gun was fully open? , what does the TDS of the primer say in regards to tip size? If your tip and thinning is to the paint manufacturers recommendation and air pressure is a true 29ish psi then the speed and distance of the gun will also make a difference

No gloves last that long in thinners but Nitrile will last the longest, it seams from my experience black Nitrile seams to last longest, these are what I use if i need a good glove...

You can try and put heat into what you are painting rather than heating up a room, a heat gun or heat lamp is ideal