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Coincidence maybe. But many extension leads are incredibly flimsy and most aren't up to continuous high loads - both in terms of cable thickness and rubbish socket contacts. High continuous load on a cheap extension lead is a fire waiting to happen.

Clever cutting to get two seats from one drum.

It's 90% certain that there is an earth in your existing bulkhead light, just that the adaptor you've identified is not the way to make the connection. A direct connection between your security lamp flex and the incoming cable in the bulkhead lamp would be the correct way to proceed... And that...

Wow. That's wonderful!

oh look... There's one right there

It's suitable for connecting the flex of a double insulated (class 2) low power appliance in an appropriate environment. Can't see why you'd want to use it for your outside light. Seems a bit of a bodge, why not install it properly? Most pir floods are class 1 needing an earth anyway, so this...

Not mild steel. Where did it come from? Recycled? Old?

Mild steel solders perfectly easily with plumbing solder and flux.

You could use brass or mild steel. Both thread and solder perfectly well.

Yes, the brake mechanism needs to be fully functional for the breakaway cable to work correctly. Any chance of a picture of the lower end of the brake lever.

Normally the breakaway cable links to the lower end of the handbrake lever - below the pivot - so the brake is activated before the cable snaps...

Yes, several times. Thumbnail definitely so, just like that with a misplaced club hammer. Regrew fine.

Brilliant. That's it!

Working in a university fabrication workshop today, and they've got an unusual bench shear or notching machine. With a lever mechanism similar to a typical bench shear, but the blade descends between two edges so rather than a normal shearing action it takes out a strip of waste maybe 4mm wide...

(Hot?) rolled steel sections with welds at the corners. The 1950s era windows were made with special section material so it was only the corners, hinge and catch fixings which needed welding - presumably an electric weld process. Frames I have seen were galvanised after assembly. Whether this...

I grew up in a house with Critall windows too. As far as I can remember the glass was held in with conventional linseed putty.

Not suggesting a hard bonding agent like epoxy, but a resilient sealant/bonding agent. Remember most fixed glazing on cars, including windscreens, is bonded in place.

What's wrong with bonding glass into an angle iron frame? Quite a common 'industrial chic' technique especially with wired glass in a blackened steel frame, and avoids the complication of trying to fabricate a glazing channel. Adds to the structural strength of the door too.

Use one of the glass bonding sealants and glue it in place.

Check out the current requirements for building regs part p notification. AFAIK if you're not changing the consumer unit and you aren't adding whole new circuits or doing any work on bathroom electrics then most other stuff is open to any competent person to do.