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The 55 Matchless in my Avatar

Managed out to the garage today, backup engine apart, the gear change was sticky, so I cleaned it up and drilled and tapped for a stainless grease nipple: New crankcase oil seal and power head gasket on order:

Brought the boat home on the refurbished trailer today, looking the worse for wear - not been used at all last year, so will need a powerwash and antifoul redone. New hood is here and new transfers. Backup engine has an oil leak from the crankcase, so first job is to change the crankcase...

New Mercury 60 HP arrived today, managed to get 200 Kg into the shed with the engine crane without too much bother.

I think our cats are a little disappointed since getting the air source heat pump system in as the woodburner has only been on once this year!

Looks great, like the stainless one. One of the guys I offroad with built this stainless one for his Series bodied classic Rangerover: I clipped my front bumper on a small tree on a steep downhill session, bent like toffee so I replaced it with: My worry now is that if I hit something...

That reminds me of the time my younger brother got knocked out for an extraction at the dentist, when he came round my mum asked him if he was ok and he replied my tooth is fine now but I cannot understand why my pants are on back to front...... think he was 14 at the time, my mum was not amused...

Mine was a Teal blue Clubman Estate, I cringe recalling welding sills over the rotten old sills (by gas). Though replacing the rear subframe on short axle stands and that wee coolant hose to the head were character building.

Relatively, about £30, though the plastic bottle versions are a little cheaper: link to Reilang Plastic oil can It is a nice design, does not leak and works in any position, even upside down.

Finally splashed out on a nice Swiss made oil can:

Yes - really handy tool I have a different version: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Veritas-Optical-Centre-Punch/dp/B011S6F61C

I am no machinist, though normally for a new hole I line up the drill point with a centre punched depression on the workpiece (an optical centre punch is handy to do this accurately). For a drivebelt, I suspect any decent bearing supplier should be able to supply one, they did for my Fobco.

I went from Autocad to Turbocad and find it fine for 2D was reasonably easy to pick up and cheap.

14: dad always had oxy-acetylene at home - making tools for motorbikes and some brazing then MIG at college when 19, I was off sick when we did TIG so missed it. We were an immature class: if someone went for a smoke you would heat up their workpiece with the oxy and see if they made the...

This thread is making me feel old, passed my test at 17 on a 200cc Tiger Cub, then onto a Triumph 500, then by 18 I was riding a Bonneville 750 with 49 hp. I have just googled what an A2 license is and see my Bonneville was not much more hp than the limit: all the rules seem massively...

As already said, if you have a make of tools/batteries/chargers a bare cordless grinder is not too expensive, I have Bosch, so picked up a GWS 18v for about £100 last year, it has been great using my existing 5Ah batteries.

Was it painted and filled with cavity wax when new though?

That looked great, I can imagine how it feels getting it pinched after putting so much time into rebuilding it. I used to hate parking mine in Glasgow - just in case.

Aye, know what you mean, my rebuild started off with getting the original chassis galvanised and ended up with a new galvanised chassis, galvanised bulkhead, galvanised axles, bumpers, tree sliders, body cappings, swing away and most brackets underneath, with hindsight I should have stopped at...

I think the big advantage of galvanising is on the inside of the chassis, if it was me, i would still consider it even if I was doing some mods. i believe some chassis makers will build it as you want e.g. engine mounts for alternative engine etc - though increases the leadtime.