I'd say just buy the complete drivers seat.
I can't comment on the specifics of NV200 seats, but generally non-sliding seat bases are completely different from sliding seat bases, and fitting sliders to a non-sliding seat will involve some heavy duty bracket fabrication.
Ender 3 is a reasonable printer.
Main tip for building it, is have an engineering square handy for making sure you get everything square when you assemble it.
Rollers/belts need adjusted so things still run smoothly, without being slack or too tight.
Starting point for the bed height, is home...
Hydrogen production using electrolysis is likely to be just one part of a diverse mix.
Like everything, it has it's pros and cons.
The big benefit is producing hydrogen using electrolysis can be done on a small scale, so you potentially you don't need to transport it as...
I'd go for adding separate switches, with some way of disarming it.
Experienced thieves will know how to get around anything factory fit, so non-standard will scare them as soon as the siren goes.
Casual thieves won't care about alarms, they'll just smash and grab.
Brake pedals on old Sprinters can be a bit on the soft side, and creep.
As long as the caliper slides aren't seized, or the brake pads stuck in the carriers, I wouldn't worry about it as long as the pedal isn't creeping down quickly.
Main time I'd be worried, is if the brake effort dropped off...
Braking resistor is used to dump energy when slowing the motor.
VFDs essentially use regenerative braking, which means the energy from the motor gets dumped back in to the VFDs internal capacitor bank during deceleration, pushing it's voltage up. One the voltage reaches a certain point, the VFD...
If you're happy to do what I suggested in a previous post about wiring a single VFD to the main motor, then switch the feed motor using the original switch, then I'd probably go for 4KW, and reduce the max current setting, just to reduce the risk of overheating the main motor.
Or fitting a 2.2...
For all intents and purposes, it's the same. 380V is the standard EU voltage (single phase is around 230V), whereas UK is 415V (our single phase is around 250v).
The Europe standardisation of voltages has that wide a tolerance, that everything remains in spec.
The only issues are very old...
No. As it mentions Star-Delta starting, it means it could be a 415V/690V (finally checked that voltage) motor.
For star delta starting to work with 415V three phase, the motor has to be 415 delta/690 star.
A photo of how the terminals are currently connected would be good.
Now that I'm on my good computer, the problem is with how the existing body has been created.
It's been created by extruding the main body to full width, then doing an extrude cut to leave the lip, which means you then can't select the face of the lip to do an extrude join all the way to the...
If it is already delta, then there is no star point. It could be the manufacturer just labelled it as 415V delta, and it is actually star connected, but it could be 415V delta, which connected as star would need 680V (I think that's about the right voltage)
If there's already two winding wires...
After fitting square taper cranks, they really need rechecking after the first few rides.
They're notorious for slackening off after fitting.
Personally, I'd refit the cranks, and just check them after each ride to make sure they've not slackened off.