Noticed people using dremel to cut out.
Only fibre reinforced discs last, but even on Ebay 12-100 are £6-12 and still break in seconds because the mesh often lacks sufficient epoxy impreg.
I lack an angle grinder, preferring a Makita 14.4V NiMH cordless which has very good speed control. Fitting a sanding flap disc in a drill mandrel worked superbly for flatting welds, saving a lot over a variable speed angle grinder.
Out of curiosity I tried a 1mm cutting disc in the Drill Mandrel. 99p.
Wow, really quite fast and very controlled cutting in perfect straight lines.
Just a thought for anyone struggling with "dremel 2 second use shrapnel".
Found the rear panel admittedly replaced 15yrs ago (!) from a rear-ending buckle had numerous unused spot welds everywhere and just bonded with sealant or panel bond. Worse a horizontal lip had been left extending out from the body which literally acted as a rain gutter pulling water straight back into the seam. It was untreated primer with a what few plug welds there were also untreated and exposed. Crazy because all the roof & tailgate rain runs straight down the back panel area so you can imagine it is a narrow but continuous blister inside and out. No water ingress into the boot, but I bet I can knock a screwdriver through the entire line. Now I know why the dealer and body shop would not let me examine the car! You had to look up behind the rear bumper.
Found it in 2004, remember the rule - any rust visible on the outside of a car has a bigger bit on the inside, leaving it just makes a minor repair more involved later. Modern cars are migrating steel thickness back into the frame for crash safety, from previously "unibody is the frame". Whilst the skin may be 0.8-0.9mm vulnerable areas such as inner wheel arches are 0.7mm. I believe some cars are now at 0.6mm... what next, Gillette start doing panels?
Only fibre reinforced discs last, but even on Ebay 12-100 are £6-12 and still break in seconds because the mesh often lacks sufficient epoxy impreg.
I lack an angle grinder, preferring a Makita 14.4V NiMH cordless which has very good speed control. Fitting a sanding flap disc in a drill mandrel worked superbly for flatting welds, saving a lot over a variable speed angle grinder.
Out of curiosity I tried a 1mm cutting disc in the Drill Mandrel. 99p.
Wow, really quite fast and very controlled cutting in perfect straight lines.
Just a thought for anyone struggling with "dremel 2 second use shrapnel".
Found the rear panel admittedly replaced 15yrs ago (!) from a rear-ending buckle had numerous unused spot welds everywhere and just bonded with sealant or panel bond. Worse a horizontal lip had been left extending out from the body which literally acted as a rain gutter pulling water straight back into the seam. It was untreated primer with a what few plug welds there were also untreated and exposed. Crazy because all the roof & tailgate rain runs straight down the back panel area so you can imagine it is a narrow but continuous blister inside and out. No water ingress into the boot, but I bet I can knock a screwdriver through the entire line. Now I know why the dealer and body shop would not let me examine the car! You had to look up behind the rear bumper.
Found it in 2004, remember the rule - any rust visible on the outside of a car has a bigger bit on the inside, leaving it just makes a minor repair more involved later. Modern cars are migrating steel thickness back into the frame for crash safety, from previously "unibody is the frame". Whilst the skin may be 0.8-0.9mm vulnerable areas such as inner wheel arches are 0.7mm. I believe some cars are now at 0.6mm... what next, Gillette start doing panels?