Its a gritty sealer
https://www.toolstation.com/febond-blue-grit-plaster-bonding-agent/p84905
Gives an incredible key, i would devil float (float with screws sticking through)
Blue grit then plaster
Blue grit stops the substrate absorbing the moisture leading to either drying too quick or wetting and delaminating.
post 16A scraper should get that off, but most scrapers are blunt. Get a decent stiff wide scraper and grind the end dead square, that stuff will fly off.
post 16
just use unibond its far cheaper .only use the blue grit if the surface is smooth or somewhere there is no key its expensive and not needed 99 percent of the time
just use sbr then on artex its totaly waterproof and does not re emulsify and blow the artex off when re skimmingMuch more impervious, works great on artex ceilings though they are not actual artex its another brand.
A scraper should get that off, but most scrapers are blunt. Get a decent stiff wide scraper and grind the end dead square, that stuff will fly off.
just use sbr then on artex its totaly waterproof and does not re emulsify and blow the artex off when re skimming
what I do is sbr the ceiling 1st and let it dry that totally seals it then put a tacky coat of pva on it and it solves both problemsSbr is makes the job too long and the plaster can skate on it. My preferred is pva if not feb. Sbr if the customer is cheap.
what I do is sbr the ceiling 1st and let it dry that totally seals it then put a tacky coat of pva on it and it solves both problems
I have a vision in my head about how flat your wall are now @Pete.
10" skirting boards actually. We were having trouble getting the paint off then I used knowledge gained from doing my scraping and tried sharpening the scrapers. If you have a bench grinder, just set it going and hold the scraper against the side of the wheel, as square as possible. Once you've sharpened the blade the first time (because it will actually be very rounded on the edged) it takes a moment to put the square edge back on when it starts going blunt again. If you have a belt sander I imagine it would be even easier.
I've also found that all scrapers are not equal in terms of holding that edge. One scraper I have is covered in black blotches where I've de-rusted it but it holds a wonderful sharp edge for scraping.
I learnt this a good few years ago when stripping paint off some doors. As you say a sharp edge is essential. I have a few assorted scrapers now I keep for this sort of work
A sharp scrapper is really a revelation
I've also found that all scrapers are not equal in terms of holding that edge. One scraper I have is covered in black blotches where I've de-rusted it but it holds a wonderful sharp edge for scraping.