reason its used on tractors and old lorrys is that its cheap n chearfull , goes over any slapdash prep and looks alright from a distance , modern lorrys with any value will still be done in 2k
And if you spray it 1:1 it's going to be floor paint. Max 10:1 if really cold
Doing it with enamel would be like spraying it with thinned down smoothrite.
If I remember correctly I used synthetic on my first car, it didnt go well as it ran and I had to scrape it all off as it wouldn't sand, my boss redid it in cellulose.I've a few scooters also in cellulose but had problems on cars due to reactions and cracking.Last couple of cars I did in two pack, one in direct gloss which apart from micro blistering (after being left covered up outside) worked out well and one in base and clear, again came up great.What would be your second choice of paint if lets say 2k paint was banned tomorrow? Thanks
I wouldn't and haven't used it in many years but your mind seems set in the stuff so heat it to warm to the touch and put it through a 1.8 tip
If I remember correctly I used synthetic on my first car, it didnt go well as it ran and I had to scrape it all off as it wouldn't sand, my boss redid it in cellulose.
If you don't want to use 2k then celly is probably the next best option. I've seen some amazing cars finished in celly.
I wouldn't and haven't used it in many years but your mind seems set in the stuff so heat it to warm to the touch and put it through a 1.8 tip
Celly will go on 2k so long as it's keyed and the clear on COB has not broken through to the basecoat
You can put cellulose over 2K and synthetic over both.
Epoxy primer is good at sealing most things and if it reacts it usually stops when it's fully cured, failing that Barr Coat (shellac) seals most things.
@Burdekin linked to a Jotun non iso 2 pack in another post of yours, I'd certainly investigate that to see if it suited your needs. It will out preform cellulose and any synthetic for sure.
Keyed= sanded? COB?