eLuSiVeMiTe
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Shark or Saxon blades on eBay do the job.
The Fein blades are stupidly expensive over here.
Are the dewalt ones as good quality and prices?
Thanks @eLuSiVeMiTe for clearing that up.
Shark or Saxon blades on eBay do the job.
Won't fit the DeWalt. Well. Not the qr anyway.I was using saxton blades but found these even cheaper still on eblag there called Japanese blades cut well and last ageshttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-Coarse-Cut-Blades-for-Fein-Multimaster-Bosch-Ryobi-AEG-Multitool-Multi-Tool/183332034175?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Dewalt need the open loop to use the qr.they fit the mac alister bosch and some others
My corded Bosch was £80 and is great.
Much better than cordless in my opinion.
Also the reason in still 110v despite not site bashing for years.I have (or have had) several of the Bosch 180W corded type... why's that Wedg1e? I hear you cry...
First one, bought new, did the usual thing of working fine until the warranty expired then just stopped dead: worked one minute, didn't the next. Literally.
As it happens I had a bit of 'previous' with a Bosch orbital sander that did pretty much the same thing and I'd worked out what was wrong and fixed that, so I guessed the oscillating tool might have the same fault.
And so it proved. Fixed that, got it working again... and then went around Ebay buying up all the 'spares or repairs' ones for buttons (I think the record was £6, and that was including the postage).
So I still have my original and I think two of the fixers.
Fuse, mains lead, speed controller, brushes were all in good order. No wires detached. Armature windings all intact. Field windings open-circuit - on every one. My deduction is that the leadout wires from the stator (field) windings are pulled taut before being soldered/crimped to the terminations. A few thermal cycles and/or the impact of being dropped (or, in the case of the orbital sander, slapped on the sanding pad to clear the paper) was enough to break the winding. Simple fix: find the break and repair it (if necessary unwind a turn from the bobbin and reattach leaving a bit of slack).
That's the main reason behind 110V power tools being more reliable: at half the voltage (i.e. of 220V) the motor draws twice the current, so has to be wound with thicker copper, which makes it more robust.
The Bosch multitool, it has to be said, is more vibey and noisier than Ann Widdecombe's neck massager - the one with rabbit ears
For the odd job yes. Pita dragging it out to drill one hole but when your set up with tools out for the day it's not a drama.the best things about 110 stuff is theres a mountain of second hand ones for sale at autojumbles for peanuts because most diy bods haven't a transformer and a lot nicked of sites. there a pain in the ass luging one round 240 much handier but fetch a high price second hand and in short supply
Also the reason in still 110v despite not site bashing for years.
Plus I prefer dragging 120v leads around and up n down. Ladders and out in all weathers
13 amp sockets don't inspire confidence in those situations
Is it not two phases at 55v tapped to earth?I've never quite figured out why 110v is seen as safer. Because the tools draw twice the current, the fuse/breaker rating has to be higher so in the event of a 'firm' contact a lot more current will flow for a lot longer before something pops. You can get a really nasty jolt from 50V, never mind 110 - machine tool lighting called 'low voltage' was generally at 48V but you still wouldn't want to poke a finger in the socket.
I'm sure I read something a few years ago where the HSE agreed with this and were permitting the 110V-only site rule to be dropped, so maybe it's just the 'half is safer' mentality, or maybe it's because 110V tools just are more robust, but I've yet to see a construction site where the guys were using 240V drills etc. Not to say I haven't smuggled one in for a job once the building mains is connected - normally the sort of stuff we install is safety systems so quite late in the build, but even so we're sometimes banging 24mm SDS's 6" into concrete for Rawlbolts etc.
Is it not two phases at 55v tapped to earth?
Nope. Was on Jersey though when I bought half my tools though. Really strick on it over there.Well yes, and a split mains cable giving you a jolt directly to earth at 55v would be less of an irritation, so I guess if that's the main cause of site shocks it makes more sense. However grabbing both 'sides' of the feed by whatever means would still poke 110 through you - although at least it'd be isolated from the grid by the transformer, there's still the full current rating of the secondary available to zap you - and 30mA is enough to stop your heart, never mind 20A or more.
Confirmation here from HSE that it is NOT a legal requirement for 240V:
https://www.hse.gov.uk/myth/myth-busting/2015/case355-tools-max-110v.htm
At a trade show a Fein rep told me that doctors use their Multitool to cut plaster casts off.