I have a grab with the cranked Kneverland tines, which have the M24 nut at the end keeping them in the bush which is welded in the frame. Same as the arrangment in this photo, just my grab is a bit smaller.
https://www.google.ie/search?q=shea...AUIDigB&biw=1600&bih=758#imgrc=cnpY_fMqyIcQKM:
Specifications after heat-treatment of a Kneverland tine are as follows:
Tensile strength: Rm 1559 N/mm2 (155kp/mm2)
Yield point: Rp0,2 1400 N/mm2 (140 kp/mm2)
Tightening torque for nut 400-450 Nm-(290-325 ft lb)
As everyone knows these Kneverland tines break when they accumulate not all that many miles actually.
However it appears that hardox tines like these are a weld in job http://www.prodigattachments.com/index.php/en/products/8-shear-grab#Pictures and these last a lifetime
Rather than fork out the €30 every time I have to replace a tine, I guess Im wondering could I taper a hardox tine and cut a thread in the end. That way I could still use my bush in the frame.
Any ideas ?
https://www.google.ie/search?q=shea...AUIDigB&biw=1600&bih=758#imgrc=cnpY_fMqyIcQKM:
Specifications after heat-treatment of a Kneverland tine are as follows:
Tensile strength: Rm 1559 N/mm2 (155kp/mm2)
Yield point: Rp0,2 1400 N/mm2 (140 kp/mm2)
Tightening torque for nut 400-450 Nm-(290-325 ft lb)
As everyone knows these Kneverland tines break when they accumulate not all that many miles actually.
However it appears that hardox tines like these are a weld in job http://www.prodigattachments.com/index.php/en/products/8-shear-grab#Pictures and these last a lifetime
Rather than fork out the €30 every time I have to replace a tine, I guess Im wondering could I taper a hardox tine and cut a thread in the end. That way I could still use my bush in the frame.
Any ideas ?