One for the Builders - Advice please.

[Dilkris]

I hope I have posted this in the correct section.
Many years ago - across the front threshold of my driveway, I arranged for a row of Double Cant blue bricks to be laid, (see photo); the reason for this is that my property is situated on a slight incline and rain water coming down the road would enter the driveway.
This system has worked great – until I started riding low motorcycles….
So – my plan is to remove a section of the Double Cant bricks and replace them with a section of BN2.1 Double Bullnose blue bricks, (see 2 photos).
This will give me a lower section approximately 1.5 m wide to comfortably ride through with my motorbike. (see photo with a BN2.1 and a Double Cant brick side by side.)
I am comfortable in removing the required number of existing Double Cant bricks, (being very careful on the road side obviously) and carefully digging down (or whatever) to the required depth for the BN2.1’s - but how do I actually set these?

A) Do I set and tamp them to level on a damp/moist cement sand mix and point the joints afterwards?
B) Set and compact them level on a dry cement sand mix, first “painting” the undersides with a cement slurry and point the joints afterwards?

C) Lay with a standard mortar mix and do everything in one go? (I can guarantee I would make a huge mess in attempting this..... )

Any guidance much appreciated.

 

[gaz1]

i wouldnt change my protection against the water coming in

however i would create a seperate gateway entrance just like a driveway with seperate gate access so i could drive a motorbike through it with slight inclines on either side but still allows the water to channel through it and flush away

 

[Dilkris]

Thanks gaz.
I am not removing the protection for incoming water - I am simply lowering the existing barrier so to speak.
I have no gates - the entrance to my property is completely open.

 

[RonMig]

I'm curious to see a picture of a motorbike which can't just ride over the existing bump... (?)

 

[gaz1]

if you intend to lower it you have alot of work as it will be concreted on that bar across the entrance

that means the whole channel has to come out and some bricks as well for reverse fitting you will have to rent a wacker plate to retamp the bricks back down after laying them again after the front edge has been done

on the other hand lifting those bricks internally and highering them is easier as its just sand and a wacker plate again as goes for the outside just buy some bags of tarmac and lay and tamp them down

if you hire a wacker plate you can get both done on the same day

the outside still needs a channel but buying those materials will give you what you want without lifting those bricks

 

[rtcosic]

A rubber ramp on the driveway side?

FiL has one at his door. I was very sceptical, but it has proven very useful. His isn't this specific supplier, but it gives you an idea:

Rubber Threshold Wheelchair Ramps & Scooter Ramps 4mm - 177mm - The Ramp People

Rubber threshold ramps up to 177mm/7inch high. Non-slip surface, capacities up to 1000kg. Ideal for internal and external use. Suitable for manual wheelchairs, electric wheelchairs, walkers and scooters. VAT exempt.

www.theramppeople.co.uk

 

[Agroshield]

In your picture, the underside of the bullnose brick is lower than that of the cant brick. That means, as gaz1 is telling you, that the new bed also needs to be lower. That is hard work and risks disturbing the bed of those cant bricks that do remain.

It might be an option to cut the bullnose bricks so their top sits lower than the cant ones, but their underside is level. How easily the existing ones remove will then determine the best way of setting in the new ones. If the old ones remove cleanly, a slurry and point could be OK. If they pull some existing bed out with them, a different bed will be needed.

There will be a sharp step where new meets old. That will be fragile and can chip if hit so some sort of transition brick could be useful (think of how kerbstones work - there is a tapered one between low ones and high ones.

 

[badabec]

A plank of wood.

 

[Dilkris]

I don't think I have presented the problem well - please refer further photo's.
"yes" rtcosic - I have been through the ramp journey - it works, but it is a ball ache putting it down and putting it away.
Referring to the photo's gaz1 there is no "channel"
I considered lifting the pavior's on the driveway but the level of the paviors is dictated by the lower angle of the Cant on the bricks - raising the paviors above this becomes very messy gaz1 - which is why I've ended up wanting to go down the BN2.1 route. (look at the photo of the Double Cant and BN2.1 brick side by side to better understand maybe.)
If I can replace a 1500mm section of the Double Cant's with BN2.1's, I will effectively create a motorbike entry point 30mm lower than existing.
Agroshield - I did attempt to cut one of the blue Double Cant Bricks, (which I have left over from years ago), and whilst I achieved it on one, it took some time and looked a mess - I really don't want to try and duplicate that on 15 of them (which is my "install" target)
Agreed also - there will be a hard edge on the sides where Double Cant meets BN2.1 - 2 to be honest, one on the left and one on the right - I think I can successfully "dress" those to take the sharp edge off.
Also agreed - the BN2.1's will have to be set 30mm lower than the Double Cants which they replace.

 

[rtcosic]

I don't think I have presented the problem well - please refer further photo's.
"yes" rtcosic - I have been through the ramp journey - it works, but it is a ball ache putting it down and putting it away.

We 'put it away'? Just glue it in place with building adhesive to stop the locals having it away.
Surely it only needs one on your drive side.

 

[Farside]

I'm curious to see a picture of a motorbike which can't just ride over the existing bump... (?)

 

[bricol]

I believe your council has to arrange the fall on roads/pavements so not to drain onto your property.

I forced Bradford to relay the pavement outside my last house so water running down the road didn't then run down my drive and through my garage.

 

[Dilkris]

I'm curious to see a picture of a motorbike which can't just ride over the existing bump... (?)

Harley Davidson XL883L

 

[addjunkie]

Buy light weight adventure bike, you are not getting any younger. If you insit on wearing chaps and riding low motorcycles, why do you need 1.5 meters. 300 mm would be ample for a two wheeler unless you have stabilisers!

 

[Dilkris]

Have you ever asked a question and then later simply wished that you hadn't.... ???

 

[RonMig]

Harley Davidson XL883L

Google says it has 3.9 inches (99mm) ground clearance... but doesn't say what that reduces to when loaded...

 

[addjunkie]

Smash one of the origional stones with a boulster, the next ones will probably lift out with a pry bar. Cut new block with a sthil saw the required height and bed on a wet cement mix made with coarse sand. Point as required with cement of your choice.

 

[Dilkris]

Google says it has 3.9 inches (99mm) ground clearance... but doesn't say what that reduces to when loaded...

True - now look at the photo's ....
Ground falls away from too and from the blue bricks - which doesn't help.

 

[Dilkris]

".......... and bed on a wet cement mix made with coarse sand. Point as required with cement of your choice"

Thankyou addjunkie - that will do.

 

[Erie Fred]

What if you installed the lower curb, and in front of it use a slotted pipe drain (approx. 4" dia) or other drain product (grating) ?