Actual data is so much more use than qualitative comments. 'Small volumes' for a 100-employee production environment? 'Small volumes' for a part-timer in his shed?
Same with budget.
Anyway - literally the very cheapest option is to make yourself a jig employing a former which allows thin walled tube to be bend without kinking (if you can't machine one, you'll probably need to buy one designed to be used with a bender you don't own) and bend it manually to a pre-set stop point. You can't get cheaper than buying no bender at all.
Other than that, you're looking at a minimum of a rotary (draw-type) bender (cost: 3 figures), manually powered, then hydraulically powered, then you're into more expensive benders - into 4 figures - then mandrel benders etc...
So it can be done at any budget - hence the question.
The shallow bend angle is a blessing, but if there is a chance that you'll need to bend other stuff in the future, I would recommend not farting about, and just buying a decent bender from the word go.
The words cheap and Tube bender do not come up in the same sentence.
You might *might* get away with a record Conduit Bender at round £100+. Otherwise is a true tube bender such as a ProTools 105 plus one die will be over £500
well i can change materials but i think 25mm ERW would be ok as the parts im being asked to make are strut braces. Plus its Tube i keep in stock.
i dont think it needs to be CDS tube as its not part of the roll cage.
Thanks for the offer phillipm, i might take you up on that but i know after an initial 10 im going to get asked to do more in ones or two's so i think its probably worthwhile investing in the tooling.
Gav, if I drop you a bit off when I get a chance to pic up my rods can you see if it bends OK an a conduit bender?
I bodged up a bender for 25mm SS tube with 2mm wall. Faked the circular former from a bent 25x6 bar with 4mm side plates, radius about 80mm with some bar to re-inforce it and give a centre. Think a square section pulley. Used some tough plastic metal to give it the rounded section. Max curve was 90deg. The semi-circular bit that pulled it round was a nylon block in a steel holder (so not to deform the nylon) This was pivoted on the centre like any bender, but with a long handle, around 4ft. Fixed to the bench, one heaved on the tube and the handle, got quite good even curves. This was for a yacht, so it needed to look reasonable. Cost of bender? About 2-3 hrs time. All the mats were stuff lying around ('cept the filler, had to buy that)
KF
I wondered about the comment about pressure benders, then remembered the shape produced by the local exhaust lot. Not acceptable for boat work, OK for under cars.
Thinking of making another one, this time with a machined former. I have a lathe, but it is bit old and feeble. Might take a while to do the shape.
Hi Bert,
Sorry, no pix. It was about 12yrs ago and I think it went to the scrappy when I cleared my w/s out down in Portugal. But I could do a sketch if you send me an e-mail.
KF
Like many of my tools, I needed only a few bends, but there was no-one local with the kit. Buying would have been out of sight.
Once I have cleared the current jobs I will try to post up a few pix of my DIY stuff. Folder, roller bender for 40/50 SHS and a few other bits.
Hi Bert ,you could adapt "Blackjack fiesta tube bender".....check his website here for ideas ....HERE....he is a member here ,although i've not seen him post recently....Gav
Why not stop by a ship yard I think they have those benders. If the diameters are not suitable, I am not sure about inch pipes because metric is always outside diameter, but anyway, the forming die you can put alu plates in there so to avoid flat spots on the tube. Steel is easy, ss can be difficult, that I know for sure.