Stainless tig welding pictures

  1. oceanobsession Member

    Posts: 321
    birmingham
    Hi all are there any pictures of stainless steel welds on the net im talking tigging 3mm tubes onto flat surfaces. also 3mm flat t joints just somthing to base my own welding on im told that when welding stainless you need to purge the back of the weld if it is to look right is this true but not on mild steel cheers ocean
  2. rusty69bus

    rusty69bus moving to the goldcoast

    Posts: 2,721
    limbo
    have a look at tig paul's gallery, might be something there?
  3. fingers99 Member

    Back purge is good. Not just about looking good, that oxidisation is weakening the weld.

    This looks interesting. Also some stuff about a new -- but expensive -- wonder substance called Solar Flux.
  4. TIG Paul

    TIG Paul Moderator Staff Member

    Posts: 3,727
    Northampton. UK
    Is this the sort of thing your looking for, the nut is an M20 welded to a 50mm square plate, the corner joint is 50 x 50 x 3 box section, the bracket is 3mm plate lap welded.
    Back purging is usually used to prevent oxidation and cavities in the reverse of the root when welding pipes and vessels etc, it wouldn't be used (or even possible ) on some types of joints used in general stainless fabrication, on 3mm thick fillets like these if you're getting it hot enough to oxidise the rear, then its way too hot. A bit of surface discoloration is normal and expected.
    • fillets.jpg
    • Bracket.jpg
  5. oceanobsession Member

    Posts: 321
    birmingham
    Re stainless tig welding pictures

    Very neat tig paul. what size tungstone did you use on the nut. also what size filler rod did you use.im currently trying
    to get a wp9 torch set up with foot switch no amperage control which i think will help.
  6. hotrodder Member

    Posts: 3,538
    SE England
    A quick tip regarding the heat discolouration... brushing the weld with a stainless toothbrush will remove it with very little effort if done while the weld is still hot- much less effort required than if it were left to cool. Not as good as an electrolytic cleaner/passivater or pickling paste but much cheaper

    Solar flux has been around for ages, type B is the one for stainless FWIW. The residue is a bitch to remove
  7. TIG Paul

    TIG Paul Moderator Staff Member

    Posts: 3,727
    Northampton. UK
    I use a WP 17 with a flexible neck, 1.6 thoriated tungsten, and 1mm rod, to a certain extent rod size is a matter of personal choice, if your looking for a nice neat weld, use a smaller rod and feed it quicker if you need to, some people prefer to use a bigger rod and move slower, find what works best for you, but you should keep both 1mm and 1.6 available for this scale of work, I also sometimes use .8 mig wire as a filler on delicate stuff, because my work is mostly off the bench,a foot pedal usually isn't much use, I find that a torch switch triggered with the forefinger, (like holding a pistol) is pretty comfortable, and more relaxing than pressing with the thumb, also make use of the 4T latching feature if you have it,
  8. TIG Paul

    TIG Paul Moderator Staff Member

    Posts: 3,727
    Northampton. UK
    That picture was taken as part of a before and after set, here's the finished item, any guesses as to what its for?, Answers written on £10 notes please ;)
    • Bracket2.jpg
  9. hotrodder Member

    Posts: 3,538
    SE England
    I figured that pic was either 'pre cleaning' or a part that'd be hidden from view, i was just throwing it out there- i suspect you probably have an electrolytic cleaner if you do a lot of stainless work?

    Long list of possabilities and no spare tenners but it looks as though the black post will be vertical- display racking of some sort?
  10. simon718

    simon718 needs to stay off ebay

    Posts: 2,015
    Norn' Iron
    flashy tv aerial bracket:whistle:
  11. TIG Paul

    TIG Paul Moderator Staff Member

    Posts: 3,727
    Northampton. UK
    It's actually a quick release mounting for a blue flashing light, for use on a fire brigade response vehicle, just slide it on to to the black roof bar, push in a stainless ballpin to lock it in place, and tear off looking for a fire, this is one of a batch 30.
    hotrodder, no I dont use an electrolytic cleaner, not that impressed by them to be honest, most of my cleaning is done with wire brushes, pickling paste (antox by choice) polishing mops and elbow grease, its surprising what can be achieved with just scotchbrite and soapy water, for larger jobs I sometimes bead blast.
    In my opinion Solar flux makes more work than its worth.
  12. hotrodder Member

    Posts: 3,538
    SE England
    Solar flux... i agree it's more hassle than it's worth 99% of the time. Most of my world is aluminium, stainless... like you i use brushes, scotchbrite and mops. The little experience i have of electrolytic cleaners impressed me, don't do enough stainless work to justify 'em though- Care to go into more detail on the reasons you dislike electrolytic cleaners?
  13. TIG Paul

    TIG Paul Moderator Staff Member

    Posts: 3,727
    Northampton. UK
    Didn't say I disliked them, I suppose they're ok on seams / butt welds, and they don't smear mirror polished like pickling paste, but you can't get into awkward corners with them, and the fluid still needs to be cleaned away, there are different fluids depending on whether the stainless is polished or dull, and the pads soon wear out, I guess really it depends on the type of work your doing, but for me they're not that useful.
  14. hotrodder Member

    Posts: 3,538
    SE England
    With you, cheers. The kit i used had a variety of different shaped heads for different joints but i can see that it'd never be as versatile as some paste and a brush. Haven't used 'em enough to witness pad life but i'd expect consumable costs to be higher than for pickling paste
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