Hi everyone, first post....
I have just started up doing 316 stainless boat railings and canopies at work. Haven't done much TIG, but the boss is happy to have me learning and practising.
My first project is a replacement canopy top and mounting structure for his centre console boat (aluminium) which has started cracking from fatigue and he wants me to make it out of stainless.
So far I have fabricated up the top part and this has been made in 2 halves which will be TIG welded together.
The top has been made with 25 diameter tubing 1.6mm thick. I have inserted the same tube inside the joint with a strip taken out of it to support the joint.
Should I leave a gap to weld or butt the joint up tight? Can't seem to find much info about this anywhere so far.
I'm more familiar with pipe where we either gap or bevel it before welding. Tubing is a new area for me and the canopy I've knocked up is coming out pretty good. The cross pieces have been notched out and are a reasonably precise fit, so almost no gaps there.
I could knock up a few little test pieces and see what works best first too I guess. But I'd like to hear more experienced voices first.
I have just started up doing 316 stainless boat railings and canopies at work. Haven't done much TIG, but the boss is happy to have me learning and practising.
My first project is a replacement canopy top and mounting structure for his centre console boat (aluminium) which has started cracking from fatigue and he wants me to make it out of stainless.
So far I have fabricated up the top part and this has been made in 2 halves which will be TIG welded together.
The top has been made with 25 diameter tubing 1.6mm thick. I have inserted the same tube inside the joint with a strip taken out of it to support the joint.
Should I leave a gap to weld or butt the joint up tight? Can't seem to find much info about this anywhere so far.
I'm more familiar with pipe where we either gap or bevel it before welding. Tubing is a new area for me and the canopy I've knocked up is coming out pretty good. The cross pieces have been notched out and are a reasonably precise fit, so almost no gaps there.
I could knock up a few little test pieces and see what works best first too I guess. But I'd like to hear more experienced voices first.