It had a gasket on the top cover -mushGearbox shouldn't have a gasket, only bottom access plate on the apron, also the headstock cover. Might be few more on the headstock, but none you'd need to take off
Started on the proper wiring last nite
Got all the end cover wiring in and dropped down to the cabinet area,
Wired in a 10k potentiometer for the speed control, cost £2.50 roughly from maplins and works perfect
Have ordered some 4 core for the motor 3 phase and earth and some 7 core for the vfd inputs etc so will get some more done later this week hopefully
Also I cut the plug off the DRO main lead as I don't want 2 seperate plugs for latheand DRO so cut plug off and the DRO power will come direct from the isolator via a 6amp breaker
The suds pump, foot brake switch and the DRO power cable are run neatly through some cable glands that are a direct fit into the original threaded holes so no risk of any chaffed wires over time either
Managed to move the lathe into the shed from the garage on my own today
Decided to do it while still in primer so any scratches can be re primered before paint and the was a few but nothing major
Rested the headstock back on to keep it safely out of harms way
Also sized up the rear chip guard but it's far too big to be fitted in my little shed as it is so what I am going to do is chop 150mm out of the depth and weld it back together then that I think will be more than adequate for me and still catch most of the chips and spray and still leave room for cross slide full travel etc
Rested the saddle on and the cross slide so I could measure the distance between compound slide and spindle center height so I can work out what size multifix tool post to order from create tool
Will touch up the primer chips tomorrow hopefully then look at getting on with painting all the cabinet Drab green the following day
Hi MK, do you know what holds the top of the compound slide on? Taken everything off that could stop it coming free but it doesn't want to let go!
Hi MK, do you know what holds the top of the compound slide on? Taken everything off that could stop it coming free but it doesn't want to let go!
on to what? The crosslide? 2 nuts and a pin in the middle, should just pull off. If you mean the top slide loosen gib strip, and wind it off the lower base, note the protractor and base are one.
hth
You can't just wind the top of the compound off since the nut hits the top casting...
First remove leadscrew (two hex bolts and wind it out)
Then loosen grub screw (front end face of lower section of compound) holding nut in place.
Now push nut down into lower half of compound and slide top section of compound off.
That's the way I did it...you may be able to remove top section of compound after removing leadscrew by removing gib strip and 'unlocking' dovetails but I'm not sure there's adequate clearance.
You can't just wind the top of the compound off since the nut hits the top casting...
First remove leadscrew (two hex bolts and wind it out)
Then loosen grub screw (front end face of lower section of compound) holding nut in place.
Now push nut down into lower half of compound and slide top section of compound off.
That's the way I did it...you may be able to remove top section of compound after removing leadscrew by removing gib strip and 'unlocking' dovetails but I'm not sure there's adequate clearance.
If anyone has a 12mm ID x 26mm OD x 1mm thick shim washer