New exterior door conundrum

  1. Phil_D Member

    Messages:
    266
    Location:
    Somerset
    I plan on re instating an exterior door where there used to be one many years ago (before I lived here).

    59BB35A3-CE75-479D-A8D1-A3E092550F5F.jpeg

    That rooms going to be the new kitchen and the other half would like a stable door of some description in there. The issue is the current window width is 800mm and the supporting buttresses you can see either side will prevent the doorway being widened any more without substantial further work.

    I looked into a UPVC option and with a door frame thickness of 70mm either side I’ll only end up with a 660mm width door - which is very narrow. I gather a standard timber frame size would be 50mm so if I went for a wooden door I’d get a teeny bit more width in. Is there anything else you guys can think of? Obviously this door will be internal opening, can wood door frames be shaved down further? Could I have the frame recessed into surrounding wall at all?
     
  2. Phil_D Member

    Messages:
    266
    Location:
    Somerset
    This is the inside
    D0E5C2ED-7FA8-44DA-859D-BD3464BD7F93.jpeg
    Relatively thick wall.
     
  3. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    2,838
    Location:
    devon, uk
    If you have any tools it may be easier just to make a door to fit, rather than trying to find the kit off the shelf.
     
  4. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,312
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    Could you just make it a porch so the actual door could be standard and the hole you have when the window and sill is removed is just a passage to the porch with the door opening out?
     
    bigegg and Seadog like this.
  5. octo0072000

    octo0072000 Member

    Messages:
    4,821
    Location:
    south yorks
    still saw cut the buttress back till you can fit a standard door otherwise all you will be doing is bashing yourselves on the tiny door spilling hot things etc
     
    hunter27 and slim_boy_fat like this.
  6. fixerupper

    fixerupper Member

    Messages:
    1,089
    Location:
    Crete Greece
    Can you work out how wide the lintel is ? ....That determine how wide you can make the opening ...
     
  7. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    4,545
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    could you put some wider pics up as not showing some more detail to point you in the right direction

    if your going to do a door make it to the proper size no point doing half the job

    smallest door you can buy is 27" and 24" after that there made up
     
  8. Ian James Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    219
    Location:
    South west scotland
    Has the property allways been a house or has it been converted from a old barn ???
     
  9. brightspark

    brightspark Member

    Messages:
    21,854
    Location:
    yarm teeside
    that's what I would do u don't need much cutting off but u may have to put a wider lintel in .depends on what u want to spend :)
     
  10. Phil_D Member

    Messages:
    266
    Location:
    Somerset
    So I can make out one side of the lintel (i think) - see pen mark

    E3CFEF3C-9B1F-4AA8-BCBD-838317155106.jpeg

    Can make out the other sode as it’s under render but the measurement from the left edge of the window to the right edge of the lintel is 1000mm. I’d guess there’s another 50-100mm on the left under the render. How much does a lintel need to be lapped into the wall by?

    And here’s a wider shot as requested
    075F72CA-DEB5-48D4-8CC0-5438944E5D70.jpeg
     
  11. Seadog

    Seadog Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,966
    Location:
    NE London - UK
    The recommended overhang each end is 6" (150mm).
     
  12. bigegg

    bigegg I drink and I know things. Its what I do.

    Messages:
    3,061
    Location:
    Leeds, uk
    ^^^
    This is what I'd do.
     
  13. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    4,545
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    its not carrying much weight on top id open it up and make a proper door of it

    old too new didnt exist in them days wood lintels was used many times over

    take note what you see maybe all the lintel is

    59BB35A3-CE75-479D-A8D1-A3E092550F5F.jpeg
     
  14. colnerov

    colnerov Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    Nr Gatwick UK
    Hi, On the right hand side of the window, where the criss cross finger marks are, looks like infill to close the gap for a smaller window. So can you attack the external infill and rendering the other side to find out what is the original wall and what's infill? If that part of the building was originally an outhouse or coal cellar then it may not have been a very wide door to start with.

    Colin
     
  15. Phil_D Member

    Messages:
    266
    Location:
    Somerset
    Well the builder randomly popped into today for a few things and i asked him about it. He's confident i can't sneak another 40mm either side into the buttresses meaning i can get a 813mm wide door into a 903mm frame. Happy with that.

    Ordered an oak stable door with the top half glazed (will be the only natural light source on that side of the room. Justing thinking about locks etc, ideally id have a sashlock on the top half and a deadlock on the bottom half keyed alike and with thumb turns inside. and then some sort of siding bold to keep the two halfs together when required.

    bearing in mind the top half is glazed, would thumb turns be a stupid idea? A burglar would only have to smash some glass to get in, but then again he could smash a few more panes and break some wood out and he would be in anyway
     
  16. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    A lock only keeps an honest person out - but burglars will be adverse to creating noise if they can help it.
     
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