Lincoln Electric Compact 220 Mig Problem

  1. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Hi,

    any help would be appreciated!

    I bought a Lincoln Electric Compact 220 mig welder for pennies recently, as 'condition unknown' (Basically I was under no illusion to the fact that the welder was not working).

    I got it home, wired a 32amp 240V socket in and connected some loose wires to their apparent homes inside the casing. I borrowed a euro trigger off another welder from round the corner and put a new cable on the machine.

    When turned on, the light comes on, it makes the right noise for idling (Fan spinning at the back etc), but when I press the trigger the motor for the wire feed does not turn and it barks a flat noise back, and I can see some plastic unit pulling what appear to be relays of some sort in? I've checked the motor off the machine with a 12v DC feed and its perfect so any other ideas?

    After a couple of seconds of holding the trigger in it trips my breaker box also.

    Any help would be appreciated. Pics to follow.

    Jordan
  2. Robotstar5

    Robotstar5 Casanunda

    Posts: 8,962
    Birmingham
    Have you looked at Lincoln Electric technical support? - link just put in the product number.
  3. eddie49 Member

    In general, tripping an input circuit breaker when not actually welding could indicate shorted rectifier diode(s). However, in this case there might be an error in the way the loose wires were reconnected.
  4. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    I have the owners manual for the welder, which is the same as what is available online, thanks for the link though!

    I have checked best I can but without a wiring diagram some of its guess work. The welder will happily sit idling, before I pull the trigger though. I should get a video really.

    [​IMG]

    Thats how I recieved the welder, Thats the box I re-connected the wires to also, and its now bolted back in place on the back panel.

    Jordan
  5. the snooper

    the snooper old school demolished

    Posts: 8,677
    EARTH UK
    remove one of the 2 thick yellow wires to the rectifier and try it again if the rectifier is at fault it should be quieter
  6. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    I did plan on doing this but kinda assumed that the fault would be associated with whatever is causing the motor to not work. My assumptions with electrics are not great though. If it isnt 12v/24v dc I'm out of my league really. Wiring my workshop for ring main, a hand shower and 3 phase was a nightmare!

    Jordan
  7. the snooper

    the snooper old school demolished

    Posts: 8,677
    EARTH UK
    do you have a wiring diagram
  8. the snooper

    the snooper old school demolished

    Posts: 8,677
    EARTH UK
    here is the wiring diagram
  9. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Jesus, I looked for that too! I found the .pdf manual but didnt find that, I'll check it against this and report back.

    Much appreciated! Thankyou

    Jordan
  10. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Still having the problem after looking through the wiring diagram. I also removed one of the yellow wires at a time and tried pulling the trigger and even with both/either one removed it made no difference.

    Heres a video - any ideas? anything missing at all thats obvious? Any help would be appreciated!


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzBBEJ0Sy_o

    P.S. the motor is disconnected at present, as I was testing it seperatly, and its perfect.


    Jordan
  11. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Anyone? :(

    Jordan
  12. eddie49 Member

    Those two thick yellow wires should be the AC input to the bridge rectifier. ( The DC output wires are apparently red and blue.) With either or both yellows disconnected, the 20 to 40 V AC secondary output of the main transformer will no longer be getting short-circuited by the possibly-defective rectifier, and so the input circuit breaker shouldn't be tripping any longer when you press the torch trigger. Since it is still tripping, the overload must be somewhere else....
    The low voltage/low current ( 12 to 24 V, 2 or 3 Amps ) supply has it's own small transformer and rectifier, and runs the wirefeed motor, speed control, gas solenoid, and control signal. It is this low voltage that pulls in the large relay ( contactor K2 ) when you press the trigger. The "auxiliary power" circuitry is already on before the trigger is pressed, and, even if defective, is unlikely to be capable of tripping a beefy main breaker.
    So, returning to the main transformer: do you get the same behaviour at all settings of the welding power switch S1 ? What is the AC secondary output voltage of the transformer, measured at the rectifier ( across the thick yellow wires ) ? Check this with both the yellow wires connected to the rectifier, and again with them disconnected. - it should be essentially the same, and should increase steadily from about 20 VAC to about 40 V, as you step up the six power settings.
  13. Fintray Member

    T.E.D.

    I'm no expert but having watched the video it seems there is a problem with the contactor ("some plastic unit") as when it is energised it should make with a "clunk" and not buzz loudly as yours is doing. Although the wiring diagram is in what looks like Polish you should be able to follow each wire going by the letter/number on each. I would guess a short somewhere that could be causing the voltage to drop which then causes the contactor to drop out, voltage rises and contractor comes back in and the cycle repeats till your breaker has had enough. Have you tried the welder on various settings?
  14. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Thanks for the replys!

    Eddie - I will try your suggestions and report back,

    Fintray - It makes the same noise on any power setting, although I haven't tested the time it takes to trip out against what power setting the welder is on for fear of doing damage

    Jordan
  15. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Worked with my cousin today running through the above suggestions and some of his own suggestions and eliminated everything but the contactor, so I've ordered a new one and will report back! Fingers crossed

    Jordan
  16. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Well the new contactor has sorted everything bar the wire feed motor, so I'll check the feed to that when I'm next there, like I said though, the motor works perfectly off a seperate feed. Have a feeling he motor board may be the next issue. Promising hearing it making the correct noise though!

    Jordan
  17. eddie49 Member

    Thanks for the update. Good progress so far...!
  18. thinfourth pleb

    Posts: 123
    Stonehaven
    Just had the wire feed go to pot on my compact185

    Ordered the wire controller board from local welding place and it is about £50+VAT

    Hopefully that will fix the problem
  19. Fintray Member

    Jordan
    Good to hear the contactor problem has been sorted, have you fixed the wire feed?
  20. T.E.D. Jordan Member

    Posts: 62
    UK -Cumbria
    Sorry for not replying sooner.

    I still wasn't getting a feed to the wire feed motor so I bought a new control circuit....

    Still no output, even though the board is seeing 240v.

    When the welder is put on the higher settings, holding the trigger down still trips the circuit breaker.

    Any Ideas/suggestions? If not this might be seeing ebay soon for spares/repairs

    Jordan
Recent Posts