I used celetape to stop springs jumping out and managed to get il all back together and switching nicely and turning on ,problem is as soon as I weld it shorts and blows plug fuse
Still wud like to fix this ,all works well but when you press trigger fuse goes,she only works on full power ,has 13 amp fuse ,do you think on 16 amp she won't blow fuse also what else cud cause this ,I have checked all wires and had very close look,also I looked inside torch ,all good
Much as MrF has said. You have created a short somewhere across the switch. Reason it is not "sparking " is the short is there before you pull the trigger so the switch is already shorted and triggering simply activates the feed through the switch (which is shorted!)
What you have to realize is that those switches are almost certainly assembled on a jig (may be just a dummy shaft) BUT there won't be any wires attaches to "pull" on the assembly as it's put together. Then once completed it would have any cross links attached and be a complete switch ready to be attached to what ever machine it is to be fitted into. I have replaced a rotary type switch like that with a more basic rotary switch (did not need or have any facility for ON/OFF as that was separate anyway) Reason I was replacing was that I had rewound the main transformer and had added more "tappings" to give a finer number of steps. Taking it from 6 to 11. Added steps were manly on the lower settings for car body work.
So long as the switch contacts are rated high enough then would be ok.