Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
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I've just made one of these up for a forum member, if anyone else fancies having a go at fitting something other than the genuine Kemmpi torch this is how to do it.
Parweld sell an adaptor that contains (nearly) everything you need.
kemppi (being the sneaky badgers they are) use a 'through gas fitting' what that means is that welding current and gas come out of the same 1/4" male fitting on the set, this is no problem if you want to run a gas cooled torch, all you need is a 1/4" to 3/8" adaptor and you're away. If you want to fit a watercooled torch though you need an adaptor because water goes back down the power cord not gas.
The kit contains an adaptor to connect the 3/8" nut at the end of a standard power cable to. You need to cut a the standard 3/8" connectors off EXCEPT FOR THE POWER CORD ONE ready to connect to the adaptor block. Make sure you feed all your torch hoses and trigger wire through the two piece cable support BEFORE you start making your connections to the brass adaptor block. Gas goes straight to the adaptor block, as does the hot water return pipe, all secured by 9.5mm single-ear-clips then they exit through the side of the plastic body via some nice molded rubber cable separator/strain reliefs. The only thing I needed was a small 5mm equal equal hose joiner and a short length of blue hose to extend the cold water feed pipe (I have spoken to Parweld and told them they need to include this but they haven't yet).
The 1/4" gas/power connector screws into the end of the adaptor block with a little threadloc with an Allen key.
Feed your trigger wire (if you are using one) through the smaller cable outlet and fit the two halves of the plastic cable support together.
You just need to fit your 7 pin Amphenol plug now, if you bought this from Kemppi or you cut it off a torch that already came off one you're ok. If not ant you bought your plug from Technical Arc like I did then you'll need to open it up and modify it. The blue plastic centre part that separates all the pins is held in by a circlip, carefully prize this out with a small screwdriver (careful not to fire it at your face as it comes out or loose it) and you can slide the pin receptacle out of the aluminium plug body. Now it's out you can look inside the body and see the keyway that orientates the pins. If you look at the blue plastic body you will also see a corresponding groove in the blue plastic housing and two grooves either side of this to allow you to re-orientate the pins in the plug. The grooves aren't fully formed in either of the alternative positions so you have to use a need file or junior hacksaw to carefully form the rest of the slot. (I should've took a photo of this stage but I can't do everything for you right?) then you need to refit the pin holder in its new orientation. If you look at the plug end on with the pins facing you, with the locating keyway at the 12 o'clock position then pins F and A will be at the top, F at 11 o'clock and A is at 1 ish. You need to rotate the pin housing ant-clockwise so that pin B is almost directly below the keyway.
Trigger pins are D and F if you are using Kemppi's cooler you must also link pins F and G, if you don't the set won't work as it will shut down with a fault.
I check for leaks with a super bespoke pressure test kit...
Hope this helps, if you can't be bothered to do all this PM me for a quote. merry Xmas
Parweld sell an adaptor that contains (nearly) everything you need.
kemppi (being the sneaky badgers they are) use a 'through gas fitting' what that means is that welding current and gas come out of the same 1/4" male fitting on the set, this is no problem if you want to run a gas cooled torch, all you need is a 1/4" to 3/8" adaptor and you're away. If you want to fit a watercooled torch though you need an adaptor because water goes back down the power cord not gas.
The kit contains an adaptor to connect the 3/8" nut at the end of a standard power cable to. You need to cut a the standard 3/8" connectors off EXCEPT FOR THE POWER CORD ONE ready to connect to the adaptor block. Make sure you feed all your torch hoses and trigger wire through the two piece cable support BEFORE you start making your connections to the brass adaptor block. Gas goes straight to the adaptor block, as does the hot water return pipe, all secured by 9.5mm single-ear-clips then they exit through the side of the plastic body via some nice molded rubber cable separator/strain reliefs. The only thing I needed was a small 5mm equal equal hose joiner and a short length of blue hose to extend the cold water feed pipe (I have spoken to Parweld and told them they need to include this but they haven't yet).
The 1/4" gas/power connector screws into the end of the adaptor block with a little threadloc with an Allen key.
Feed your trigger wire (if you are using one) through the smaller cable outlet and fit the two halves of the plastic cable support together.
You just need to fit your 7 pin Amphenol plug now, if you bought this from Kemppi or you cut it off a torch that already came off one you're ok. If not ant you bought your plug from Technical Arc like I did then you'll need to open it up and modify it. The blue plastic centre part that separates all the pins is held in by a circlip, carefully prize this out with a small screwdriver (careful not to fire it at your face as it comes out or loose it) and you can slide the pin receptacle out of the aluminium plug body. Now it's out you can look inside the body and see the keyway that orientates the pins. If you look at the blue plastic body you will also see a corresponding groove in the blue plastic housing and two grooves either side of this to allow you to re-orientate the pins in the plug. The grooves aren't fully formed in either of the alternative positions so you have to use a need file or junior hacksaw to carefully form the rest of the slot. (I should've took a photo of this stage but I can't do everything for you right?) then you need to refit the pin holder in its new orientation. If you look at the plug end on with the pins facing you, with the locating keyway at the 12 o'clock position then pins F and A will be at the top, F at 11 o'clock and A is at 1 ish. You need to rotate the pin housing ant-clockwise so that pin B is almost directly below the keyway.
Trigger pins are D and F if you are using Kemppi's cooler you must also link pins F and G, if you don't the set won't work as it will shut down with a fault.
I check for leaks with a super bespoke pressure test kit...
Hope this helps, if you can't be bothered to do all this PM me for a quote. merry Xmas