Toleman
Member
- Messages
- 302
- Location
- Bedfordshire England
Here is a little technique I learned for getting good fixings in hollow walls. There are other and possibly better ways to achieve the same outcome but I've never had problems hanging kitchen cabinets like this and personally think it's stronger than some rawl plug fixings in thermolite blocks.
This particular partition wall is known as paramount and was used a lot in the 60s. It consists of pre fabricated panels made from 2 sheets of plasterboard with a crossed cardboard core. This technique can be used on any hollow wall with a stud construction too.
Firstly mark your wall fixing bracket positions on the wall. Then 2 - 4 inches below (providing what your fixing covers this) knock or cut a hole big enough to feed a piece of scrap wood into. In the case of paramount walls you'll need something stiff but flexible to ram in to break up the core. I use plastic 15mm plumbing pipe but conduit or mini trucking would work. Then feed up your off cut so it's directly behind your fixing points. Chipboard or mdf works better than softwood as it doesn't split and you should use 15 - 18mm thickness. An initial screw or 2 can be used away from your marked fixing points to hold it in place and pull it up close to the back of the plasterboard. You then simply screw your bracket on as normal and you have a good fixing.
I'm not sure if this is required but I'll include it anyway:
This technique is something I've used hundreds of times and I have never had a problem with it. It may not be suitable for your application. Please use at your own risk.
Chris
This particular partition wall is known as paramount and was used a lot in the 60s. It consists of pre fabricated panels made from 2 sheets of plasterboard with a crossed cardboard core. This technique can be used on any hollow wall with a stud construction too.
Firstly mark your wall fixing bracket positions on the wall. Then 2 - 4 inches below (providing what your fixing covers this) knock or cut a hole big enough to feed a piece of scrap wood into. In the case of paramount walls you'll need something stiff but flexible to ram in to break up the core. I use plastic 15mm plumbing pipe but conduit or mini trucking would work. Then feed up your off cut so it's directly behind your fixing points. Chipboard or mdf works better than softwood as it doesn't split and you should use 15 - 18mm thickness. An initial screw or 2 can be used away from your marked fixing points to hold it in place and pull it up close to the back of the plasterboard. You then simply screw your bracket on as normal and you have a good fixing.
I'm not sure if this is required but I'll include it anyway:
This technique is something I've used hundreds of times and I have never had a problem with it. It may not be suitable for your application. Please use at your own risk.
Chris