Harry Worth
Member
- Messages
- 42
My best tip is start with a decent welder. Or do a course where they have decent welders and afterwards take yours in for them to set up or debug.
I've had folk over here who have struggled to learn how to weld. If I teach them the basics on a decent welder they generally understand what it's all about and have a better chance of making their own welder work for them.
I've found it impossible to teach using a cheap and cheerful welder. It's the biggest reason for giving up, or for continuing to weld to a poor standard.
Hi - I had been anticipating buying a decent (expensive) welder but having asked here come to the conclusion (and times are hard at present) I would be better buying a cheap one (Clarke Pro 90) initially although people seem to say more expensive is easier. What exactly does an expensive welder give that a cheap one doesn't in terms of technical spec. rather than build quality. when I compare a Clarke Pro 90 to a Kempi Adaptive 180 the figures seem close. That is at the lower end of the power range where I assume I'll be, welding car bodywork. I've read it's the minimum amps I need so I won't continually blow holes.
Clarke Pro 90 - min amps 24A, Kempi 180 Min amps 20A, Clarke open circuit voltage 18V - 26V, Kempi 15.5V - 42.5V - Yes I appreciate the Kempi will weld much thicker which is I guess what these figures are saying and the duty cycle in infinitely better. is it that the apparently small differences at the lower end will make a big difference in ease of use.