About damn time... I got the welder out!

  1. Mark E Making it harder than it needs to be.

    Messages:
    171
    Location:
    Isle of Wight, UK
    Right, I've been following many people on here because let's face it, sometimes it's just more fun than doing your own jobs. However, I've finally begun to sort out the things that need doing - nothing like an imminent deadline to focus the mind!

    In a nutshell, I foolishly cut a piece out of the chassis of my truck. It's 4mm thick steel. I have a Clarke 151TE. I have argoshield. I have all the tools.

    I set myself up...(for failure)... I've had the welder a few years and have used it in the past to make some welds but last night, a 30 min job turned into 2 hours as I tried to find the problem.

    Photo 11-08-2017, 22 56 41.jpg

    I thought some simple butt welds would be a good start but alas, the welder wasn't happy...

    Photo 11-08-2017, 23 24 36.jpg

    I changed the shroud and the tip but then I read the manual and had a look at the wire:

    Photo 11-08-2017, 23 39 14.jpg
    Not so good eh? So, I luckily had some 0.8mm wire laying around and learned how to change that around and got the welder working.

    The very next weld:

    Photo 12-08-2017, 00 11 48.jpg

    I was very pleased but that was it for the night so I decided to attack it again today.


    So, the section missing from the chassis is 55mm x 70mm approx and measures 4mm thick. I got a piece from a local engineering place and cut it to size as well as putting in a v on each side of the weld, ready to go...

    Photo 12-08-2017, 20 15 03.jpg

    And the piece fitted, magnet and all...

    Photo 12-08-2017, 20 16 35.jpg

    I decided to practice a bit more before messing up my chassis. This was my second attempt.
    Photo 12-08-2017, 20 52 59.jpg

    I thought it looked OK but it didn't go all the way through it would appear.

    Photo 12-08-2017, 20 54 06.jpg

    I tried again..
    Photo 12-08-2017, 20 59 35.jpg

    Weld looked OK on the top...
    Photo 12-08-2017, 21 03 10.jpg

    But again, didn't seem to penetrate... see next post.
     
  2. Arclikeharrypotter Member

    Messages:
    493
    Location:
    Northampton
    Put a bigger bevel on the plate, and also you need a slight gap between the two plates.
     
    Mark E likes this.
  3. Mark E Making it harder than it needs to be.

    Messages:
    171
    Location:
    Isle of Wight, UK
    Photo 12-08-2017, 21 03 25.jpg

    So, where do I go from here? Are those welds passable from an MOT perspective? If so, I might give it a go and weld that piece in. :welder:

    If not, is it a limitation on my welder or is it my skills? I can practice but I haven't a great deal of time. Am I better off just getting someone out to weld in my patch piece rather than spend a long time finessing my skills to the point I can do it myself?

    Thanks for looking and any comments appreciated. :thumbup:

    Yes, it's a wooden floor and I had a hosepipe to hand. :flame:
     
  4. Arclikeharrypotter Member

    Messages:
    493
    Location:
    Northampton
    It's all in your prep, if you spend some time putting in a good bevel as small root face, and allow for a gap of a few mm you'll be able to run a bead with good penetration! As for whether it's passable or not for mot I don't know, but I'd not want to put that on my car.
     
  5. Mark E Making it harder than it needs to be.

    Messages:
    171
    Location:
    Isle of Wight, UK
    Thanks mate - I am relieved about the gap as there is a bit of a space where I cut the piece to fit.

    Do you mean you wouldn't want the job of putting it on the car or you'd not be happy with my welds? :) No offence taken, just trying to make sure I understand.

    How much would someone charge to do this professionally?
     
  6. gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    3,299
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    you want 1mm - 2mm on other side so your near on grinding a bevel all the way through the metal

    then your on setting 3 max 4/5 or higher aim more direct at the plate
     
    Mark E likes this.
  7. Mark E Making it harder than it needs to be.

    Messages:
    171
    Location:
    Isle of Wight, UK
    So I am aiming to have the bevel almost as wide as the weld pool? I guess I will cut through the pieces I have and try and practice some more. It's just this and some electrics holding me back from an MOT... :drunk:
     
  8. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    354
    Location:
    london
    I'm newish to this welding stuff too....but as others have suggested have you tried leaving a 2mm-3mm gap between the plates. 4mm is pretty thick steel....my welder will do 4mm-5mm at a push but only with a descent gap.

    I think those sample welds will not have much strength....have you tried breaking the weld?
     
  9. Wedg1e

    Wedg1e They call me Mr. Bodge-angles

    Messages:
    5,800
    Location:
    Teesside, England
    Even with 0.8mm wire I'd have said full pen on 4mm plate was optimistic for a 150A set, if it is actually making that current.
    A good rule of thumb is to require 1A of current per 0.001" of thickness... so a millimetre is about 40 thou", you'd be happier with 160A minimum.
    With a good Vee prep and small gap you'd get away with it for MOT as long as it's neat, the tester can't get at the back of the weld if it's box section anyway.
    I drive a TVR and some of the factory welding wasn't THAT great... :whistle:
     
  10. mrfuzzy

    mrfuzzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,649
    Location:
    Kirriemuir, Angus, Scotland
    Personally..I'd stick weld that 2.5mm 6013 DCEN running about 55-60amps, then fill and cap with 3.2s DCEP about 120amps...that or fill and cap with the mig...

    Could be migged but needs a root gap to help the penetration, crank the set RIGHT UP, back off the wirespeed, which should up the penetration, just have to do it in shots to avoid the thermal cutout. (one of our assessments was welding a V butt in 6mm plate using a 150Amp fronius transformer mig (with no more settings than a clarke)
     
    eLuSiVeMiTe likes this.
  11. fixerupper

    fixerupper Member

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Crete Greece
    All as the above ..with my Clarke I find the slower I move the more penetration...
     
  12. gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    3,299
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    with the rocket stoves builds im using 5mm and 6mm plates to do those i find it easier to prep both sides in a vee and weld on one side first then the other side

    clarks are quoted at 5mm thickness on the blues, 6mm on the red ones however thats with prep being done on the material

    you should be able to go right through with 1mm left on your material after your vee prep as ive done it this way
     
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