dodgy welds
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whats the best way to keep the rust away from my rover cabrio just had to buy a new quarter panel for so want to cover against the rust ever creeping into the same place again dont know what works an what doesnt
- Thread starter dodgy welds
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Unclefista
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Firstly this is all "in my experience" and as such should be treated as "suspect" 
all rust must be ground out, I've tried all the "Rust Eaters" etc. and they work, up to a point, but I've found that if you cover rust, it comes back..
I try to start off with shiny steel, then give it a coat of an acid-based rust treater (turns the shiny metal blue) then a couple of coats af an etch primer, then a high build primer, then rub down and treat any seals with seam-sealer, then top coat or anti-stone-chip or whatever you want to use on top.
Don't leave it in primer long, it's water permeable and the damp just gets straight to the surface, it causes problems if you just seal it with a top coat.
all rust must be ground out, I've tried all the "Rust Eaters" etc. and they work, up to a point, but I've found that if you cover rust, it comes back..
I try to start off with shiny steel, then give it a coat of an acid-based rust treater (turns the shiny metal blue) then a couple of coats af an etch primer, then a high build primer, then rub down and treat any seals with seam-sealer, then top coat or anti-stone-chip or whatever you want to use on top.
Don't leave it in primer long, it's water permeable and the damp just gets straight to the surface, it causes problems if you just seal it with a top coat.
dodgy welds
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thanks cost me £189 and much searching for the panel dont want to go to all that hard work just for the stinking rust to appear again
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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We're moving the goalposts forward on rust protection in the Renault 4 forum.
My current thinking is to avoid any double skinned sections of steel - capillary action means they are constantly full of water. No way to avoid double skins when repairing a flange that was originally spot welded though.
For that sort of thing get everything clean and seam seal the join from the outside then paint over.
From the inside traditionalists talk about injecting one of these wax products. I find waxoyl doesn't penetrate into seams. I'd guess any similar waxy product will be the same. Instead I'm planning to inject some sort of oil in the chassis members. Though it would be best if it were an oudorless oil but I've not got that far yet.
Renault forum suggests odour free oil, but we're still working on that one.
My current thinking is to avoid any double skinned sections of steel - capillary action means they are constantly full of water. No way to avoid double skins when repairing a flange that was originally spot welded though.
For that sort of thing get everything clean and seam seal the join from the outside then paint over.
From the inside traditionalists talk about injecting one of these wax products. I find waxoyl doesn't penetrate into seams. I'd guess any similar waxy product will be the same. Instead I'm planning to inject some sort of oil in the chassis members. Though it would be best if it were an oudorless oil but I've not got that far yet.
Renault forum suggests odour free oil, but we're still working on that one.
dodgy welds
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thanks malcolm was thinking of geetting dinitrol or granville but the oil seems a good idea thoug
rtbcomp
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Thin Waxoyl very thin to get into seams and apply on a hot dry day and make sure all the joints are dry.
Don't use old engine oil, it contains water and acid and is carcinogenic. I had some stored in a old central heating tank and when I moved it the bottom fell out. Oh joy!
Don't use old engine oil, it contains water and acid and is carcinogenic. I had some stored in a old central heating tank and when I moved it the bottom fell out. Oh joy!
Ratty
Putting the She in Sheds
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Further to rtb's advice - heat the waxoyl too, it makes it much more fluid and the warmer you can get the metal the better. I know it's not practical on a vehicle but when I treat steel sculptures I heat the metal with a blow-torch and spray the hot waxoyl on, that way it actually gets into the pores of the steel.
zardoz
Old school Socialist
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dodgy welds
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i wouldnt use used engine oil the smell would be to much i di see in anthoe thread not to use zinc rich primer was going to use that first but not so sure now
rtbcomp
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Another reason not to use coatings is that if it becomes detached moisture can get trappped behind it and cause rust. I reckon underseali on cars caused as much damage as it saved. If you use something that soaks in you can always top it up.
Also keep the panels drained and ventilated.
Also keep the panels drained and ventilated.
Flange joints
Spot welded fange joints are a problem. Some are at the bottom of a box section, some are at the top and some run up the side.
I think what works may change from one location to another. Brazing or gluing the flange joint can eliminate the gap that the moisture works its way into. I think this is a method that will work but I have not used it yet.
You can't generally get seam sealer inside the box section but I do use it on the outside of the seam.
In recent times I have used hot thinned waxoyle and per warmed the metal. The importance of pre warming the metal should not be understated. However, I have now started squirting WD40 in before hand in the hope it will displace any moisture that is already in the seam.
Spot welded fange joints are a problem. Some are at the bottom of a box section, some are at the top and some run up the side.
I think what works may change from one location to another. Brazing or gluing the flange joint can eliminate the gap that the moisture works its way into. I think this is a method that will work but I have not used it yet.
You can't generally get seam sealer inside the box section but I do use it on the outside of the seam.
In recent times I have used hot thinned waxoyle and per warmed the metal. The importance of pre warming the metal should not be understated. However, I have now started squirting WD40 in before hand in the hope it will displace any moisture that is already in the seam.
bill_gj
Tired and irritable
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On another forum that I subscribe to (Eng-tips.com) the following thread had a few answers / suggestions re holding the rust at bay.....have a read:
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=185908&page=1
It's interesting stuff.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=185908&page=1
It's interesting stuff.
I stand the wax in a bucket of hot water for a couple of hours so it is nice and runny and try to work in the sun on a nice hot day. Recently I've been using Dynax 50 from a company called Bilt-Hamber and its very good stuff, seems to creep better than waxoyl and comes ina handy gian aerosol with a long bendy wand with a very good spray nozzle on the end.
Ratty
Putting the She in Sheds
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What's it like when it's 'dry' Lippy? Can you handle the metal without it coming off all over you? or does handling it destroy the barrier....
