compounding new paint what's best to use

Norm · Jul 23, 2011

Hi Guys, will need to wet sand / compound my new paint in a few weeks what's the best system to use? Farecla G3 seems to be the most popular when I have searched the forum and web although I have seen some wool pads / compounds on you tube that seem to be very good. what do you recommend for use on cellulose? thanks in advance
Regards Norm

paintpot · Jul 23, 2011

this is what we use in the body shop as well as g3.green cap first ,then yellow cap ,finer cut.

Norm · Jul 23, 2011

cheers fella I've ordered some of the fastcut, just got to wait for the paint to cure,
Thanks Norm.

ajlelectronics · Jul 23, 2011

Didn't know it had been ill :-) Good info actually as I am going to be spraying a caravan shortly. As I am having to do it in the driveway, it has to be cellulose. I would normally use G3 but may give the 3M a try instead.

Norm · Jul 23, 2011

ajlelectronics said:
Didn't know it had been ill :-) .

LOL

don't know the right term but dry enough to sand/polish is what I mean if anyone knows how to speed up the process all info greatly recieved I am leaving it out in the sunshine if and when we get some
regards Norm

mike 109444 · Jul 24, 2011

You might want to go on ebay for some buckets of sunshine with the way the summers going so far

Raf · Jul 28, 2011

you dont want paint to fully cure; its easier to cut & polish up usually after 24hrs (less if baking).

more work when it cured. i usually paint last thing, then wetsand and polish up in the morning; about 15 hrs wait.

Norm · Jul 28, 2011

RAF is that with cellulose? everything I have read on the net says two weeks or more, some suggest a month is better?
Norm

Norm · Jul 31, 2011

Well, decided to have a quick test go on the back of the car and the fastcut is not for the faint hearted :scared:

I am not very experienced with a rotary buffer and was extremely scared of burning my new paint, didn't get past speed two and watered it down with soapy water from the spray bottle. Probably not the best way to use it and I am gonna have to practise a lot more before tackling the rest of the car, I am well pleased with the initial result tho and for a home spray job if I can get it all like this I will call that a result thanks to paintpot for the recommendation

paintpot · Jul 31, 2011

when you use fast cut ,keep your mop head dampish ,not to wet ,Don't polish in one place .Polish 2foot by 2foot area.This will stop you warming up the paint work.Using the spray bottle ,what we do .When i was spraying cellulose in the 70ties,We used to polish the next day.The reason some people polish ,days or weeks later is to let the paint sink shrink into some repairs,or even edge out around repairs.Then they would give a good flat and polish.in bad cases re coat.Never have a dry mop head.

Welderpaul · Jul 31, 2011

Will this product work on any paint? I've been reading up on obtaining a decent paint finish, never knew about compounding.

paintpot · Jul 31, 2011

it will work on any car ,commercial paint,we use 2k paint ,it works on cellulose,here is a car i polished after spraying.

Welderpaul · Jul 31, 2011

I'm looking to get a showroom finish on some tractor body panels. Not sure of the best paint to use.
I can get a decent finish from spraying, but compounding looks to give it that much-needed finish quality.
I was going to get a pro to spray them, but might have a go myself.

paintpot · Jul 31, 2011

if you want a showroom finish ,its best go base and clear.if you use 2k solid colors ,they tend to fade very easy,do to the sun UV ,

Welderpaul · Jul 31, 2011

paintpot said:
if you want a showroom finish ,its best go base and clear.if you use 2k solid colors ,they tend to fade very easy,do to the sun UV ,

What's 'base and clear'. Sorry to sound thick.

Painting's not my thing..yet.

Any recommendations on paint manufacturers names?

Norm · Jul 31, 2011

Paul, I'm sure one of the more experienced members can help you with paint manufacturers recommendation, etc, but in simple terms base and clear or clear over base is a paint system where after your preparation and primer coats you spray a basecoat which provides the colour and onto this you then spray a clearcoat which provides the gloss and is the finished surface, very much like applying clear varnish to stained wood if that makes sense.
Regards Norm

Welderpaul · Jul 31, 2011

Presumably then you compound the basecoat before the clearcoat?

Norm · Jul 31, 2011

As far as I know you do not touch the basecoat once sprayed it is only the colour layer, the clearcoat is compounded and polished to provide the desired level of finish.
Norm

paintpot · Aug 1, 2011

apply base coat then clear coat .Then you can polish.paint manufacturers.sikkens glasurit standox .ppg .ici .debeer..you need to contact MOVAC OR BEE BEE PAINT distributors.o norm 36 years experience.
.

Norm · Aug 3, 2011

paintpot said:
.o norm 36 years experience.
.

Which is 35 years and 10 months more than me and why I am so glad I joined this forum with helpful guys like yourself willing to share their knowledge,. I have done a bit more cutting and polishing and its coming along nicely however I have a problem in that I am hosing down the compound residue as I am going along but any water droplets left on a polished panel are leaving what can only be described as craters which wont wipe off with a damp cloth is this normal or is the paint still too soft? I did sort of pile the paint on a bit so that I could polish out orange peel and I wonder if its still not fully ready for polishing, any help much appreciated.
Thanks Norm

compounding new paint what's best to use

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