BroomWade AC25 She's 'ere!

She's arrived.


I've started an album and this thread to record what and how I do with getting this beastie cleaned up, nurtured and hopefully running like a good un.

I think it was originally Blue in colour and has been painted Red.

Here are the pics of it as it came.




After some cleaning (only surface and light for now) it's come up quite well.




Checked the 'dipstick' (that's the metal stick next to the oil cap, not the buyer of the beast) and oil level is at the top.







Now size is difficult to see when it's sitting there on its lonely. So I 'took' it round and placed it beside my Peak Scientific Silent to give you a perspective!
I did this ALL WRONG!
I should have taken the Peak round to 'The Beastie' (as it will be known from now on)!!!!!!

Boy it is a lump!










The BroomWade specs.....
Piston Displacement - cfm 24.6
Free Air Delivery at stated working pressure (100 psi) - 15.2

Question?
I'd like to take the pulley wheel off (it strikes the floor).
This pin (I thought it was a cotter pin) is, I think, brass and is hooked at the top, like it should pull out. Does it?


I have a schematic of the pistons, crack case etc and will when time allows strip and check everything out and rebuild. Are there any things I should look out for, surprises etc?
I hope you enjoy this as much as I will!

Almost exactly the same as ours. I'm curious as to what ours is now so I'll have to scrap the accumulated filth of ages off the tag next time I'm home! Just watch out for the pipe you connect it to the tank with; they get hot!

The key could be a "Gibb head key" (don't know if that's right). you would need to knock a wedge between the head (furthest bit from the shaft) and the pulley and ease it off.

Don't know if that makes any sense.

Like one of these.

Gibb keys can be a cow to get out, a bit of heat before you start may help, have a look behind the pulley and see if the pullley can be knocked further onto the shaft, that will release the taper on the key, worst case is if the head pulls off, then you have to drill without damaging the keyway.

Originally Posted by wyn The key could be a "Gibb head key" (don't know if that's right). you would need to knock a wedge between the head (furthest bit from the shaft) and the pulley and ease it off. Don't know if that makes any sense. Like one of these.

That's the fella


thanks wyn.

Originally Posted by TIG Paul Gibb keys can be a cow to get out, a bit of heat before you start may help, have a look behind the pulley and see if the pullley can be knocked further onto the shaft, that will release the taper on the key, worst case is if the head pulls off, then you have to drill without damaging the keyway.

Good call, I was worried about that with it being brass. Gibb Key it is, at least I know you can get replacements. Just a thought, with it being brass and soft and all, is this kind of thing a 'use once' key and should be replaced?

Good tip on striking the pulley wheel back to release the tension, have a MAPP gas gun will that give me enough heat it's big pulley wheel!


Go on Archie! thanks for the tip, but it'll be a while before that's a problem.
I'll be installing he "air ring" as I get the rest of the wiring done through the garage, I recon on 22mm end fed fittings silver soldered? Any thoughts?

Why not leave the pulley on ?,as Paul rightly says they can be a right pig ,unless you have to strip it for bearing or seals ,just modify the rails when you find a motor to power it or perch it on a resevoir ,so you have clearance,Gav

Hi Gav,
Yeah breaking it is the worst thing.
I was, just for the sake of 'doing it right', wanting to strip it and make sure everything was good.
I'll see how the piston housing looks and maybe the pulley can stay.
Just wanted the 'knowledge' for later, as it'll be on the back burner for a while, your advice included.

I would check the state of the reeds/ valves first and if they are good attach the motor(when you get one) and do a pump test.

Its not something i would do unless i have to ,ideally you want to get heat in quickly so it doesn't soak through to key and shaft ,at work we used "pepperpot"heating nozzles with oxy propane,then beat the pulley backwards,then used levers and wedges behind the head of the key ,works most of the time ,never looked forward to doing them ,and normally bought pulleys machined to accept taperlocks afterwards ,so much easier.If you decide you need to change the pulley size because of the motor speed ,then smash and replace the pulley becomes an option .....

Hi eil,
I've got the assembly instructions and I've got section valves and delivery valves.
Once I get to them I'll let you see them and you can check them .

Ah the motor I'm working on that, I was looking at a pulley system to hand crank it but I've run out of rope.