Been a while since I had a chance to weld in anger, a job came up to reinforce a house lintels with steel plates due to a change in the scheme design, I was looking forward to a day welding. Job went well so thought I would share a few pics. mall welds are 7016 heated in oven before starting
some bits ok some not so good, photos can make a reasonable weld look bad
practice and a consistent smooth motion will come with practice
6013 v up aint the easiest, try a 7016 and you will never go back
good on ya for posting pics
cheers
The worst looking weld I have seen for a long time, did you pull the rod or push it forward? looks like you ran a 2.5 rod then welded straight over it with out removing the old slag.
bohler are good rods and a bit of surface rust shouldn't cause it. what amps did you run with
It's a perfect job for a 2.5 6013, can be done with any rods that have been mentioned though, use what you have and what you like to run. Don't get too hung up about penetration
Pics needed pls
i was welding structural stiffeners on columns using a cherry picker last week, i had to give up cos the wind was blowing me and the machine
around and i couldnt get good runs, probably would have looked like the proverbial pidgeon droppings if i had attempted it again today
using stick welding to butt weld 2 1.2mm sheets together sounds next to impossible to me, could you use a strap behind the joint
and rivet them together? probably stronger than the weld
surprised someone hasn't said they can do it with 3.2mm rods and 130amps;)
Looking pretty good to be fair, not perfect but that comes with practice.
Keep it up and try a small weave L-R (2mm only) use a piece of chalk to draw a line on the metal to follow
Cheers
I assumed the bottle which you attached the leg to ran continuously behind the leg which you welded on, if the piece you welded on has nothing behind it and you can see weld material coming thro the joint and it has fused to both pieces then i apologise and you have gained strength.
Would be...
not bad welding for what its for, more practice will neaten it up.
How do you know you got 'full penetration' and why do you think you need it? you probably got very little penetration with your settings but penetration doesnt really matter, good fusion is all you need.
hi ask him what he wants to weld with seems a good idea
your structure seems overly complicated, could you use a bigger box section (add a small haunch if nec) and remove the int'l bracings? would look cleaner underneath.
the tension sections will be complicated to get tensioned.
Keep the...
Not perfect but defo getting better. Pics not that clear but No 4 shows you are fairly confident with the rods.
Phoenix 7016 rods are the best IMO and you should be able to run a perfect down hand bead with these. (i assume you dont mean vertical down)
You dont have to get the metal to shiny...
your statement 'heat and speed are seperate variables in arc welding.more amps means the rod burns faster, it doesnt mean your rate of travel has to be faster'
contradicts itself. if you run a 4mm fw at 100 amps then, as you say the rod burns faster. if you turn the amps up, then to still get a...
don't personally agree with turning your amps up as i think 125 is too much for a 3.2, but i guess its kind of a personal thing on how fast you wish to travel,
turning the amps up simply means you can travel faster
let the slag cool and it will contract a bit and dislodge easier, if your run is...
could you weld a small piece of square bar either side to prevent rotation of the bolt and another piece across to stop the bolt moving
100% of bolt properties remain
depends on job details whether this is possible as you will need to drill a hole to put the bolt through first
i got the phone call today from my weld examiner...............and i have passed:D
class 1 structural welding certified for fillets
Happy days, well pleased
cheers