I think both. You're effectively doing a mini 90 degree butt joint there so the same rules apply. From a weld strength point of view, it's good to keep the arc biased toward the lower element to get penetration otherwise the pool justs 'sits' on the metal with limited penetration. It'll come...
On the butt welds above, - not bad but there's an undercut and the weld is a bit uneven - train the arc more towards the lower surface to stop the undercut and alow the molten pool to 'melt into' the round bar.
I'd be tempted to up the power/feed and move faster on this gauge of steel.
If you look at his last (bottom) weld, the spatter issue had been resolved.
The art of adusting the feeds and speeds is part of learning to weld of course. This adjustment is a constant part of the welder's job - as the jobs and applications vary. I just don't see the point of knocking...
The nut is fecked. You have to buy the spindle and nut assembly (was quoted around £100 for mine) but see if you can grind the burrs off the nut with a dremel - worked on mine!
Don't waste your time and money grafting it back together - it was ****e to start with. Get a Record (Not a modern Irwin-Record) or a Woden.
No 23 or 25 (larger quick release type) or a No 6. Depending on what jaw sizes you're after of course.
I agree totally with the passage above. Most of the paying public have no idea what the overheads involved are. ...We get lawnmowers in sometimes, the customer asks for a price for repair which can be a few hours work plus parts...bringing the repair cost to the same as (if not more than) a new...
BUT! ......Is it a 32 Amp or a 16A....They look similar! 16A would probably be a kosher way of doing it depending on it being part of a ring main circuit. The blue one on my post is just a 16A type used on caravan hook-ups.
If you want to go 30 amp then you must have a dedicated line from the consumer unit and the appropriate heavy wiring, switching and socket/plug (or hard wire it to a cooker switch).
The whole thing needs be protected by an appropriately rated MCB (too low rather than too high) in the consumer...
I sympathise with your worries but in reality, going the respirator route will be too cumbersome as you need to pull your masks & gloves on and off so frequently to check and adjust that you will start skipping using it.
I'd advise you get an extractor and some hose and a hose stand/clip and...
The solution is pretty simple: you spur off your socket with wire that is over rated for the current you'll draw (16A in my case) and use one of these
Fuse will be rated at 16A or less
and use one of these to connect your welder
I bought a socket & plug for around a fiver -...
You're analysing it too much. Hobby is fine - The welder certainly isn't 'industrial' by any means. The handbook simply gives the following part numbers.
0.6mm (pack of 5) 8132260
0.8mm (pack of 5) 8132270
1.0mm (pack of 5) 8132040
They are just bits if threaded copper with a hole...
Waste of time and effort m'boy.
Unless you want to write your name on stuff, try practicing by joining bits of metal together. After all, that's the definition and point of welding. You'll find the technique slightly different as metal gets 'absorbed' by the gap and the writing on flat plate...
From experience, you won't fashion those very easily by hand.....it'll cost you more than 40 quid's worth of timen & aggro and your dimensions will be all over the place and it will look like a dog's dinner. Believe me, i'm good at it and would still buy them. The thickness looks right to me...
I converted mine to a Euro connector (see my guide posting in Clarke section) after giving up on trying to get a response from Clarke or Weldequip on a std repacement torch. The std sub-components are readily available I think but I was after the whole assembly.
A can of 'Tip Dip' may help...