You would think so but the knob on many regulators turns anticlockwise to reduce the pressure (and ultimately turn it off) and clockwise to increase it. Put it next to a valve on the bottle that turns the other way...
Reviving this thread once again, I recently used the Jawel iso-free lacquer when painting a new wing. I used it over Lechler Hydrofan water-based basecoat that I have used before with a 1K lacquer but never with 2K or with the Jawel stuff.
I mixed it exactly to the instructions but thinned it...
I'm afraid I can't offer phone support but my young lady recently did something similar on her Jeep Grand Cherokee. Not the chassis - it doesn't really have one - but a structural member made from approximately 2mm thick steel sheet.
First of all, a cheap bender is very unlikely to handle 2mm...
I'm not sure about slow wire speed but when butt-welding around 1mm I use voltage setting 2 out of 6 on my 160A Parweld MIG rather than going all the way down to 1. That way a brief tack has enough power to give full penetration without me having to hold the trigger long enough to heat up teh...
Do you mean you turned down the shade? I'm talking about something different - a little switch on the cartridge inside the mask that selects between high and low sensitivity. It only has those two positions, nothing in between (it is just a switch).
I've just been helping out my other half...
My first MIG, a SIP MIGMate 130, used to "run on" when I released the trigger. As part of the mods I made to make it a usable welder I arranged a brake on the motor so it wouldn't do that. It did help. My current welder doesn't do that and I only have problems with extra stick-out when I...
Does the cartridge in your mask have a "Hi/Lo" sensitivity switch?
I usually leave mine on "lo" and only switch to "hi" if I'm doing any low-current TIG. Then I forget until I'm doing MIG or Arc outdoors again and it starts false-triggering so I switch it back.
I have a little Aldi buzz-box that does that when started from cold. I've found that if I wind the current control right down before switching it on there is no problem.
Hi, Mike. Not had to do that particular part of a 9000 (yet).
As above, I'm afraid you have to hold the torch off the work. Best to hold it with both hands to keep it steady and if you can rest one arm on something, then so much the better. If you were thinking of dragging the shroud you might...
We did that on Len's 900 project and it wasn't too difficult. Better if there isn't too much petrol in it, of course. Disconnect the pump feed and return and the electrical connector, disconnect the filler neck and then support it somehow (jack might be how we did it) while you undo the straps...
Exploded view of this area:
Ignore me saying that bolt is nothing to do with the seat-belt. My other half has just been out to look at her 900 and reckons that bolt is for the inertia reel, probably involving bracket 21 in the diagram. It's hard to see whether those voids in the panel are...
Hi, marlinspike. I got your PM, thanks.
That does look disheartening - I feel for you. However, it also looks savable. I hope it is because I suspect my own 900 is gone at the same place, with the LH rear wing coming away from the sill.
In that photo, I believe the bottom of the internal panel...
Sounds like a 9000 Anniversary or Aero if you have coloured side-skirts?
Like the others above, I don't think that tank will be big enough to spray a door or a wing, although it's hard to say what size it is (looks like about 25 litre?). Certainly, forget HVLP with that.
I resprayed various bits...
Thanks, everyone.
I found some soft ones like the ones scotty41 mentioned, sold for use as slingshot ammo. They machine really easily and weld nicely.
I have two options now - to centre-drill the end of the shaft so I can centre the ball and TIG it on, or to turn the end of the 6mm shaft down a...
Good idea - ball bearings are cheap and plentiful. I'll give that a go.
Also, looking back at the ball stud in the link above, one with a female thread wouldn't be too much of a faff to fit, if I could find one.
I'm looking for an 8mm diameter steel ball (well, lots of them, actually). I want to drill a hole in it to fix to the end of a shaft and most steel balls I can find, which are hardened for use in bearings, probably wouldn't be the easiest to drill. F H Brundle do "ball nuts" with a threaded hole...
What shears do you use for 5mm strip, Chunko? I'm looking for something that will chop at least 20x6 and have seen a few that look like cousins of your bolt-cutter and that probably came from the same factory.
Yes, that's what we have found - there are many different paintstrippers of varying capabilities and better-suited to various jobs.
In the end, the DeSolvIt product turned out not to be very effective. As noted above, Nitromors attacked the plastic. Interesting to hear it's useless on car paints...