The new ones come from RS Components and from an Abac parts supplier . Tested with a Draper auto-ranging digital meter, it's been good with the far tinier caps I normally mess with in guitar/pedal electronics, the new comp caps test close to the rated value.
Thanks for the confirmation, I'll go...
Hi all, it's been a while, I hope everyone's OK... I've been quietly getting on with stuff but got a dilemma. I've got a 3hp comp from the mid 90s, make unknown as it came from Shiremoor as recon and he painted the whole thing in Hammerite...
I've wanted to replace the start/run caps. The motor...
I'd say Hilux, having had a Surf, and looked at choices before going for one. It was auto, manuals are relatively rare. Totally reliable (3.0 that is, not the 2.4).
My Mum has an older crew-cab pickup with manual box, done 250k in Cyprus - far harder roads than here... The 2.8 engine is fun in...
Great work, and looks really good...:cool: make me miss mine. Bit late to the party, don't come on her much any more. I've had two wagons, nearly bought back my last one a year or so ago but missed out by 10 mins... But I just got a 2-door. Great cars.
Sand it with a dry paper, 3M Fre-Cut, say 180 to 240 depending how like a ploughed field it is... That paper sands it really well. Get a couple of litres or a 2.5 and re-spray it. That's what I did to mine. I used 220 grade because I had it.
You may need to do spot etch priming if you go...
Don't get on here much hence late addition, but I think they're great; considering they're conceptual sort of things and not detailed models, and the display is about the flower bed/design thing and not the metal flowers, they do the job just right. More detail would be distracting.
I make...
If it has to be painted you could get a sign/sticker shop to make a mask from low-tack vinyl, or frisket or similar. Remove before the paint is fully set up, a gentle waft from a heat gun makes the mask lift without drama.
That's exactly what I used when I was a po'boy building bikes on a patio outside... 1k is a solvent-based paint as per most off-the-shelf cans. It's not ideal using cans but sometimes you've got to make do with what's available.
If you go to an auto paint shop they can mix up cans of it for you...
I wouldn't put epoxy ontop of celly if that's what's there, done it once, won't do it again... it moves about eventually and creates annoying problems.
imho best have either all layers in celly, or maybe 2k primers only and celly on top, if anything.
2k is nicely fuel resistant on the surface, but if it gets at an edge it'll soften and lift it then. So you have to watch it around the filler cap area. Give it room.
1k is OK with a bit of care, i.e. wipe any spills pronto. Donks ago I did bikes in rattle cans and they survived just fine. Lots...
Belt drive usually make more max pressure/hold more air for same tank which can be useful. Also aren't they easier to repair?
I've got 2 new and two s/h. I bought one 3hp/150 new, and since then prices seemed to shoot up so the second 3hp/150 is s/h. it came from Shiremoor who'd checked it...
It's 2k for one thing so chances are it's same as usual. Can't go by a picture some marketing genius dreamt up, and the 'cyanate' part is there in the sheet; all that says normal 2k to me. Might be worth firing a question at the makers though.
Mine was ex-with paint prob applied by squaddie with broom:laughing:. 3m Fre-Cut paper was great for levelling it off, 180 grade or thereabouts.
Reckon you'll be find sanding and Combi straight on will be fine; it only takes a small % of thinners to spray so it's not likely to wake up the...
If it's 2k is must have an activator, and that's where the isocyanates will be. The sheet says "polycyanates". You could ask the makers to be sure (looks like this lot) -
http://www.motipdupli.de/?L=2&id=1470
data sheet-...
Synth vs Rustoleum, there's not much advantage I can see. They're similar paints. Combi takes just as long to dry if not longer and has exactly the same issues as synth enamel. It may fade less than synth, I don't know.
Both take an age to dry - plenty of time for dust & bugs to land (though...
It's impossible to say really, but it is tough stuff. There's different types and makes. Surface and prep makes a difference. The hardest/toughest I've found so far (not that I been testing tons of them like..) is Jotun marine primer which is harder than the auto/industrial stuff by a good way...
Don't worry about the spelling or smart comments mate. A spell checker might help you out though, I think the Firefox browser has one (or there's an add-on for it). Anyway.
A Sealey Gold is a decent budget gun, the different setups (nozzle/needle etc) are cheap to get so I use mine for primers...
That was on top of barcoat? Would suggest the primer did that by itself (or whatever went onto the barcoat)? Had similar tension/shrinking cracks with 1k recently - did an experiment with it. Kind of sheared like that from certain points like holes in the surface. Went by itself when another...
You need a decent second comp to power an airfed mask though, and the filter pack, not that cheap. Still cheaper than a pro job though.
What colour are you doing Blackolive, is it solid or a metallic or..? There's still cutting and polishing with 2k.
Sometimes celly looks right, like on some...