My machine allows automatic remote detection off in the setup. It is a different model and I don't know how it will react. I know I can put it in remote mode, even when nothing is connected. (That's all I tried a while ago). But you could try that too.
Found Kemppi schematics dated 2001...
You could:
Try to squeeze the resistor terminal in the connector terminal while the tin is melted (keep solderiron on it)
Wrap one resistor terminal around the connector terminal, solder it then.
Connect the red wire in the pedal, so there only one wire...
https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/doe-het-zelf-en-verbouw/gereedschap-lasapparaten/m1178123423-kemppi-c100p-afstandbediening.html
Noticed this one a while ago, in the Netherlands though. Not quite the same, but maybe useful.
Modern Kemppi's have min max settings on the machine, not on the panel. Quite nice actually, you don´t need to reach under your foot. But if the machine can't detect there's a pedal connected, you can't set hi lo on the machine.
You're welcome. So cool you can use this. I just noticed that you posted just recently, I only looked at the date of the first posts.
0,6w is just fine. Hardly any current will flow with 10k.
The connector is a Amphenol type, mostly clones are used. But you can unscrew them. The terminals are...
Certainly, between A and D, in parallel with the switch. The resistor on the photo that Gavin posted is 1% tolerance.
Drawed the schematics. Just like Gavin did, the first one is from the backside. Just look at the letters on the connector.
I know this is an old thread, but when you google on the internet, it looks like this is the only info you can find. I'm making a pedal for my Kemppi. This thread helped me further.
In te drawings of Gavin, the switch is between 5V ref (G, the centre pin) and D. This didn't work on my machine...
Holy cow, this forum is active! I need 2 windows of the same thread to give some decent response! Thanx for the replies everyone, I appreciate your opinions a lot. I don't do this kind of stuff for a living.
@welderpaul & busa:
I thought about this too, but the problem is that the tubing...
I'm going to build a wheeling machine. I need to cut in 22,5 degree. I want a good fit. The attached picture is not exactly the final result I want, but close enough for the idea. (The frame is nog my idea, stole, I mean borrowed it from http://www.imperialwheelingmachines.com/ ).
Because of...
I need to cut 250x150x8mm square bar. An angle grinder is all i have, I'm planning to make this jig I made up:
I'm not sure it will work though, just a thought. The first picture is a guide to slide the jig across. The jig can only be used on the top and bottom when not cutting 90...
nice. I see you're restoring a semi-automatic (BVH). You also have the right suspension spheres, they are "softer" than the newer ones. Can you find a place where to refill those easily in the UK?
What stuff are you're using in the boot, inox weld-primer?
I haven't used a Lincoln and I'm not an experienced welder. But I have bought the Kemppi minarg adaptive 180 a while ago, and I don't regret it at all. Very easy machine to use, just set the thickness of the material and go. (possible to set it manually also) And very easy to make nice welds...
Look here
I don't weld without gas, but I can tell you this:
I bought the MinarcMig Adaptive 180. Very nice machine, it welds very very smooth. The machine is easy to use, just set the thickness of the material you want to weld and go. It takes 5 kg wire reels. I highly recommend it. You...
Bought the Minarc 180. Redicoulus machine! No compare to my Telwin. The kempomat 1701 is also a realy great machine. The kempomat is comparable to the Minarc when it comes to the welding process. The kempomat is just solid, better mechanical parts, more unlikely to break. I bought the minarc...
thanks M0ngoose, much appreciated. I think I'm going for the minargmig, because of the wide and good adjustable voltage range.
I currently own a Telwin (Sealey like) with 4 voltage steps, so I'm curious how this machine welds :welder: