Yeah it was a 9/20 gas lens mostly
Always water cooled
Just 1 set up that practically covered everything. I don’t see the point in complicating things further messing about with different sizes.
In most instances I rarely used anything but a 1.6 tungsten either. Had the balance so well tuned...
I used to use a no7 cup for everything I could. Never bothered to change it for anything DC or AC all materials baring the very rare exception I did any Ti.
We will just have to disagree on that one then.
Personally I wouldn’t dream of going anywhere near a nice clean piece of aluminum with a wire brush and when I was fabricating stuff out of it for paying customers I don’t believe they would of appreciated it either.
The etched zone can be...
There is really no need to start scrubbing aluminum to death with a wire brush. It does more harm than good. If the aluminum is clean give it a wipe over and let your machine take care of the oxide layer.
The grade sounds fine. It’s a cold rolled workable very low alloyed grade and you shouldn’t have a problem getting a pool going on that.
Stop scrubbing it with a wire bush. There’s absolutely no need to do that.
Reach out to someone and ask them to help you out on a 1-1 basis. Stick afew...
I’d of waited till he answered my question before going through all that Zep.
Looking at the odd occasion where he has melted that aluminum, you can see it’s been melted under the oxide layer and not broken through it.
Unless he’s welding in 99% DCEN, I reckon he can’t get through it because...
Hi Joe.
Before going down a long winded diagnosis route of check this check that do this etc, can you confirm 100% that the aluminum your welding on is NOT anodized
Rich
You need to load a tungsten up and get it glowing well for it to perform at its best. Use a 1.6 where ever possible. The only reason to step up is if the size your using simply isn’t coping.
It’s not expensive to do a proper job.
Fit a c16 type breaker and run a 2.5mm TnE to a dedicated 16A socket for your welder.
If you pull too much juice from the main supply around the house while your using it then it will knock out the breaker…. Simple
Just be aware of what your main total...
Wouldn’t worry about efficiency mate when it’s tig vs tig on home made projects.
Just a very basic AxV/C would give enough accuracy to work out what’s effectively a hotter condition.
Good Fit up, power and speed.
Brads heat input calcs demonstrate it spot on.
You can’t do any of the above unless you do them all or it simply doesn’t work!
Eg you can’t move quickly unless you apply power and you can’t apply power unless your joint fit up is A1.
The sugaring on the back...
For me personally gas lenses weren’t about saving brass. They were used because they offer a better delivery of the gas shield over a collet body. It was just about quality. They do allow you to drop flow rates slightly so yes they can save you some money but if it’s just about that then buy a...
Little trick of the trade coming here …. Pull your tungsten further out especially on joints where it’s tight (like corners)
You’ll be very surprised at what you can actually get away with when using a gas lens.
The worst joints for being able to actually see what’s going on are the best...
I think to a lot of users they are more an image thing than actually any real benefit over a quid a piece standard pink cup.
Maybe some people can see and weld through them but I can’t bloody do it as it’s just a horribly distorted view
Hideously expensive if you buy the real welding ones and...