the same thing happened mine I think it's some sort of safely switch that cuts out when the machine is overloaded or moves not sure which
I just held the button down until I got finished i think I press the switch for a while just to free it up and it got better all by itself
I got a carton (15kg) of them a couple years ago for €36 the story on them at that time was there are made by the same factory that supplies oerlikon and these are their own brand. they are very decent rod for the money with very little splatter especially on dc
and child's play to weld with
Tertiary 38cc Petrol Chainsaw found here i still wouldn't fancy finding any spare parts for it what exactly is wrong with it
ps its a bit like this one as well RYOBI RCS3540C
the 4 small brown rectifier diodes (that's what they looked like to me) the first one looks to be out of shape have you tested the transformer to see if it is still working
I would cut it just above the weld and weld a nipple to it you could even cut one side of the nipple off flush with the nut and grind the shoulders of the nut to make it easier to weld
make sure the seal on the rod is not near where are your welding it might be best to pull the rod out so...
the problem is i am getting about 10V across the brushes and the voltage between the wires on the block if that's what you mean by coils L1 and L2 about 3V and it's the same on R1 and R2 which is a pity because that's a nice Jenny
the one that in bits on the bench is reading around the right...
lack of power usually means something wrong inside in the Jenny take the back off then you can do a little bit of testing
there is basically two types one is capacitor driven and the other is avr (automatic voltage regulator)
to test the capacitor one un plug the capacitor start Jenny you...
had a look around and found thees and this one
but i like this one the best
the website
a lot will depend on the type of work you going if it's just right angles notches then there is nothing as quick as the lever type one
the hole saw type will be slow going through pipe but more...
I have a friend who bought one of them from a crowd in Cork for around €300
and swears by it for notching 2 in. galvanize pipe
I prefer to use the bandsaw to notch pipe it's slower but when you get used to it it works very well
external reservoir looks familiar is it a John deer transmission filter if you don't have and air breeder on the external reservoir it would stop the jack from working as well as the oil cant flow out if air cant get in
is the port drilled into the cavity under the cylinder of the Jack if it is then the oil will be pressurised as this is part of the cylinder if you wanted to fix a pressure gauge this is where you would put it some of these jacks can have up to 10,000 PSI
the airlock is usually in the jack...
windy is correct your jack is airlocked its a simply fix. put the jack standing normally pump it up to the top keeping the reservoir above the jack. open the release valve turn the jack on its side with the new port facing upwards. now press the ram against a wall to retract it while keeping the...
probably best to find out what it's made from cutting edge is usually just welded on in the long run you are probably looking at a replacement
dissimilar are used for welling unknown types of metal and different types of metal there easily enough to get in most places that sell rods their...
hi mgarym dissimilar would probably be best' or 7018 try and drill the end of the cracks this will help stop them from spreading. preheat would help also especially with dissimilar