Superbad, I wouldn't worry about it. You are replacing like for like, using the original methods. Don't have the book in front of me, but the wording goes something like "at least as strong as the original". Make sure you have a similar number of spots, neaten it with seam sealer, can't see a...
Hey Woz, no probs. Know what you mean about grey areas, even worse now it's computerised.............big brother etc.:(
Here's a different take on corrosion ('ope it displays OK) Image is of a car I tested a couple of months ago, the rear axle casing is completely corroded away, both...
No 'ackles ere mate, lifes too short. If you are replacing the whole sill section, i.e. the member as fitted in the factory (original) then it's ok to use the same method as the original constructor. If you cut a piece out of the sill, grind the spots off to the original flange, whatever, this...
I MOT vehicles for a living. Not read the whole of the thread, but just to clear up a few points on this page...........Sunbeam mike is basicaly correct, if you replace the whole sill member, then it's OK to spot weld. If it's a covering or skin sill, it's classed as a patch repair and should...
Hey-up Si, sideplates up and tacked, stern wrapper plate formed and placed to one side, just on with the swim plates, and then next will be the counter plate.............gettin' interesting.
Thanks for askin' JB...
Mike at DIYwelding, kindly sent me some sample 7016 rods, an' I've finally had chance to try them. OK, only been tacking 6mm plate, but used vertically up, they were very nice rods. Excellent penetration, glass hard flux which released as soon as it was chipped. I purposely made the tacks...
Absolutely DIY, thanks for the offer........I'll pm you.
I'm not throwing the others out, I'll give them a try on something else.
I started blowing holes thro' the root (ok, could have been my naff fit up) but then I used 7018's with no probs, including welding the holes up............so...
Update on the 7016's..........gave 'em a try, but I couldn't really get on with 'em. Seemed a bit too aggresive, even with the amps down.
Went back to my 7018's, no more probs.
Two good welding days, sunburn on the back of the neck, arcburn under the chin, knees killin' me..........but...
Thanks people.........good answers. The link posted by Si gives me what I need, and saved me a small fortune;-)
now.........anyone heard a weather forcast?
Hi snowcat........that the sort of thing I need. Does that indicate they aren't suitable for mild steel?
I want to put a root in 12.5 mild steel, downhand (flat)
Thanks Darren, can't think why I didn't check that link myself.......I could really do with someone who has used these rods to come in.
They are rods I've never come across, so any tips on using them would be good.........are they a drag or a whip rod? etc...
Hi All, just sorting some electrodes I bought a while back, in a job lot. Came across a box of Murex Ferex 7016.
I'm not familier with these rods, never tried them. Can anyone say how they compare to say 7018's? I'm happy with 7018's, but how do these rods run, and how do they stand up...
I carry out MOT tests, for a living. Welded repairs are a minefield, but, VERY basically........you can carry out spot welding "where this originally existed" this means for example, if you took out the entire sill of a car, and replaced it will a FULL sill assembly, spot weld would be fine...
Just a quick one..........have a couple of boxes of Esab OK rods, but don't understand the terms used for the class.
No probs with "6013" "7018" etc, but this pack says "OK silkmat 43.24" and then in very small print "EN 499-E 42 A R 12"
There are redrying instructions, so am I looking at...