The four things I see almost every day on the motorways, trailers doing over 60mph, using the right-hand lane on 3 or 4 lane motorways, pulling a vehicle bigger than what they're towing with, and obviously overloaded trailers.
All good enough reasons for the coppers to have the tools to...
I don't suppose it'd be too difficult to make one that folded up, but you'd need to use some hefty round bar for hinge pins, and come up with some sort of reinforcing plates to beef it back up when unfolded to avoid it collapsing.
It must be sort of legal at least, otherwise I wouldn't have...
Similar here joker, B+E is vehicles upto 3500kgs mgw with a trailer, but most people who passed their test after 1997 will find that they're restricted on the weight of the trailer (<750kgs or mcgw <3500kgs iirc) unless they take a specific trailer test (usually in a medium sized van with a twin...
GeorgeB, someone once brought a mini into an mot station I used to work at with lots of fresh underseal all over the underneath, the testers little hammer sunk into it by nearly an inch!
It was refused a test until the owner had cleaned it off to a point where the condition of the metal...
In general just stiching along one edge of a lap joint will be enough, If you can get to both edges it's pretty much up to you if you feel like carrying on. Where you cant get to the other side of a lap joint, you can drill through one thickness in-between the oe spot welds and do some plug...
Stick it on gas with 0.6mm wire and have another practice, that set should easily cope with auto bodywork, my little clarke 90 manages to weld body panels quite well. I've found most bodypanels are around 1mm or thicker, unless it french, where it'll either be as thin as paper or made of plastic.
I've got the gas/no gas version, it smoked a bit a while back when using some fairly poo extension leads stretched across a mates garden, but with my heavy duty one it's been fine.
I tend to have it set on full power most of the time, even on 2mm thick mild steel, though I am using 0.8mm...
If I won't be able to get to the back of a joggled joint when weldings finished, I either butt weld instead, or posistion it so that water/moisture cant sit in it, by pointing that edge downwards. If you can get behind it when done, give it a good filling over with a seam sealer.
I cut my finger in almost exactly the same way a couple of years ago when using a friends grinder, I thru it at him and told him to put the disc gaurd back on while I went to buy some new gloves.
If it's something that's gradualy gotten worse I'd suggest (if it is bosch K-jetronic) the bi-metal spring in the air flow meter may have worn a little and require adjusting. I remember it being a fairly common thing to need tweaking 10-12 years ago.
yep, I've always ground off whats left of the original outer skin on the bottom edge, and the plug welds normally penetrate through the inner sill skin into the floorpan skin too.
With skin sill I've always marked where the top of the skin will be, then cut out the old from 10mm under the line, and joggled the edge of the new skin to fit under the cut. Then a few plug welds along the top, plug welds along the bottom in place of the original spot welds, and finished off by...