You could probably achieve something easier to get aligned and quicker to do with some all thread and the right sized thick walled tube. But it'll be considerably more expensive than rolled bar.
I know little about the subject but am surprised that people use piston compressors for breathing kit. My instinct would be to use an appropriately sized squirrel cage blower. Should be adequate pressure, less power, less noise and no risk of oil contamination. But maybe there's a good reason -...
If you oversize the welder somewhat, every component, lead, clamp etc will be a bit beefier and loose fewer volts at your potential maximum power. A 150 welder run at full beans will blow a fuse (and overheat quicker) than a 180A run at 150, if that makes sense.
I'd consider putting in a...
If making that many, a bending jig and press could save a lot of time. Budget option would be a pair of shaped jaws for a vice, nicer option would be a flypress.
You only hace to make X3 sides together to add to the lattice so would save 1/2 of the cuts, probably some welds and a lot of...
You're planning to repeat that to make a honeycomb? Nice.
You need to make a jig to build additional cells/attach them to the panel. Won't be easy keeping everything true and flat but should be doable, with a bit of hammering too. Oh and a chop saw to make loads of bit of bar the same length...
We use a couple of trolleys here. Mostly on concrete but it's not that smooth. Tried hard solid and soft solid but, despite the punctures, have gone back to pneumatic. They're just easier to push.
On a very smooth concrete floor you might be fine with hard solid, or even steel wheels but any...
Doesn't sound right at all to me. Solid fuel stoves get around this type of issue by using a loading valve that won't let cool water back into the heater until its contents are a suitable temperature. And then, only gradually, so as to maintain a sensible water jacket temperature. Laddomat is a...
Modern electrics are often particularly fussy about frequency, as well as voltage. As a cheap test, meter the generator while it's running and loaded/unloaded and see how far away from grid spec (50hz?) it goes. I would expect that will be cause alone to decide it's too risky.
Well, this is far too sensible an attitude for a midlife crisis. The proper order is to buy a bargain car you lusted after in youth and then realise you need to buy a welder and learn to weld as it wasn't a bargain but a rust bucket. I applaud your sensible attitude!
Well done for sorting a few, relatively simple but time consuming jobs that would drastically reduce the life of an otherwise serviceable vehicle. Plenty would wait until it's way too late.
If you've stopped the ingress, don't underestimate the power of a dehumidifier to drag water out of the...
Something like this, to max out a 13A socket;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273958877921?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=t67_b3vjTvW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bl7oVt0pRnS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Have used that company before for washer parts.
Also bought a complete unit from...
Good point, and another reason to set up as I suggested you could. Most solar diverter gadgets have boost timers that can be used to control for legionella risk.
I agree, it's a good idea. The water thrown away will have more value than the cost to heat it if you're on mains + sewerage!
However, I'd keep it made fairly standard so it's achievable and hopefully reliable.
You can use DC from PV directly to heat an immersion but it's not ideal. Certainly...
I found a slightly galled spot within a boiler pump once. It needed the fan prodding (with a steak knife iirc) to get it going. Cleaned it up and it ran well until decommissioned a few years later. Pump disassembly/reassembly was a bit fiddly
Depending on use, you might have issues with cold bridges, well, everywhere. But including that pillar.
If it's just an unheated, well ventilated porch, probably not a big issue. But if you fancy it becoming part of the kitchen, it might be problematic.