It is a rod (very long bolt) that passes through the spindle to retain the chuck in the spindle.And a draw bar is what?
Hmm, ok. I'm initially only looking at using this mill to run some 6mm wide slots in a few pieces of (possibly) nylon or other plasticcy material so hopefully this draw bar of which you speak (which I don't seem to be able to identify on my mill) shouldn't be an issue.It is a rod (very long bolt) that passes through the spindle to retain the chuck in the spindle
It's that rusty looking nut sticking out of the top of that round black sticking up thingy in front of the motor.You can?
You mean this thing?It's that rusty looking nut sticking out of the top of that round black sticking up thingy in front of the motor.
Yup - without a drawbar the tool's (or toolholder's) Morse taper will start to "walk" out under side loads - the reason milling in a pillar drill's a Bad Idea, and a very fast way to break things you don't intend to!
Ah yes, makes perfect sense.Yup - without a drawbar the tool's (or toolholder's) Morse taper will start to "walk" out under side loads - the reason milling in a pillar drill's a Bad Idea, and a very fast way to break things you don't intend to!
They do have diffferent threads on different machines / tooling, it can be a pain unless you have the right one(s) - e,g, my mill has M16 (for 40 taper tooling which falls out without a drawbar), some are 7/16x20tpi, others 5/8x11, M12, M10 - if they can use it, someone will have...
My experience is that they drop out suddenlyYup - without a drawbar the tool's (or toolholder's) Morse taper will start to "walk" out under side loads -
It is very important.. even with a draw bar and collet chuck it's easy to get cutters drop down into the work piece over time.Hmm, ok. I'm initially only looking at using this mill to run some 6mm wide slots in a few pieces of (possibly) nylon or other plasticcy material so hopefully this draw bar of which you speak (which I don't seem to be able to identify on my mill) shouldn't be an issue.
Boy, this is some schoolday!!!
I am deeply jealous.....Here you go!
A couple of the mill:
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One of the chuck (?)
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and one of the only bit (if that's the right term) it came with.
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Have you read the handbook?The beauty of the Posi lock chuck is you don't need to do it up very tight. A gentle nip then screw the cutter fully up with your fingers. Er collets need engine head bolt torque, there's a special thrust bearing type washer to make that a bit easier.
And make a big flipping mark in the table?My experience is that they drop out suddenly
I found out the hard way what happens if you leave it out.Hmm, ok. I'm initially only looking at using this mill to run some 6mm wide slots in a few pieces of (possibly) nylon or other plasticcy material so hopefully this draw bar of which you speak (which I don't seem to be able to identify on my mill) shouldn't be an issue.
Boy, this is some schoolday!!!
If reading the Clarkson book, do not expect the flange of the nut to meet the face of the body. I usually screw the nut of so it is lightly holding the collet in and then screw the cutter in until it grounds out on the centre spike. Then tighten the nut, it doesn't need to be mega spanner tight as if the cutter moves it will tighten itself up.
Or on the workpiece.And make a big flipping mark in the table?