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		<title>MIG Welding Forum</title>
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			<title>MIG Welding Forum</title>
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		<item>
			<title>Gas solenoid wont open! Help</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33300&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 05:29:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a Dayton 160 amp mig welder model #3Z914E. My problem is I turn on the machine, turn on the gas and then hit the trigger and no gas comes out...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a Dayton 160 amp mig welder model #3Z914E. My problem is I turn on the machine, turn on the gas and then hit the trigger and no gas comes out of the solenoid to my gun. I turn off the gas and bleed it and then hit the trigger and the solenoid opens and closes with no problems, but not when there is pressure against it. I've also hit the trigger to open the solenoid and then open the gas and it flows good through the gun. When I let go of the trigger the solenoid shuts off the gas and then I hit the trigger again and it wont open. I measured the voltage to the solenoid and getting a -12.7 dc volts when I hit the trigger, the solenoid is a 24V-DC 6 watt. What do I check for? Need to get this going to finish my project. :(</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=6">MIG Welding</category>
			<dc:creator>kiquee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33300</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Machine Shop recommendations in Manchester</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33299&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 22:26:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Okay hoping for some recommendations here! I need to get a few parts turned up on a lathe and some TIG welding done by a coded welder. Any one have...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Okay hoping for some recommendations here! I need to get a few parts turned up on a lathe and some TIG welding done by a coded welder. Any one have any recommendations from past experience of firms in Greater Manchester? Unfortunately my two local contacts are too busy to help out at present :(</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7">The Brew Room</category>
			<dc:creator>Cris B</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33299</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Stupid Car Insurance!!</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33298&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 22:03:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok i Admit it, I'm a 'young lad' 24 years of age....not the most attractive age or gender to car insurance companies. Except i have 6 years no claims...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok i Admit it, I'm a 'young lad' 24 years of age....not the most attractive age or gender to car insurance companies. Except i have 6 years no claims and a license for 5 years ( I bought and insured a car whilst i was on a provisional licence for a year)<br />
<br />
I've had a few cars, <br />
<br />
1996 1.2 corsa - Became bored and was tired car,<br />
1999 1.7 corsa - again, became bored with it,<br />
1988 volvo 740 saloon (2.3 turbo) - Loved it, sadly missed and sold onto a collector, due to a massive hike with  renewal quotes.<br />
<br />
I really didn't want to part with my loved volvo, £350 it had original 43,000 miles and was in very good shape, hence why i sold it to a collector! It was powerful, but i drive like an old man :laughing:<br />
<br />
I know have a 1996 ford fiesta and last year it cost me £987 fully comp.<br />
Well, guess what? Renewal time and its now looking like £1,300...:mad:<br />
<br />
6 years no claims, not a single speeding ticket or bumps.<br />
<br />
My boss has a 1985 bmw 316 stashed away that has been off the road for 5 years, with nothing wrong with it apart from needing a small amount of welding. It has full bmw history and only sports 59,000 miles with 2 owners from new. £250 Is all he is asking for it..... Great!<br />
<br />
Only the insurance is £1700 for it!!!! Its only a 1.8!!<br />
<br />
As if i'm going to be hand brake turning and doing donuts and taking every other driver on a drag race from the lights in a 27 year old car.... Insurance really needs to tailor quotes to each individual.... :mad:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7">The Brew Room</category>
			<dc:creator>SiPMerlin150</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33298</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Belt tensioner puzzler</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33297&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 20:41:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi,  
 
I'm hoping someone here can help me here because I can't quite figure it out. 
 
With a tensioner pulley between two static pulleys, how much...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, <br />
<br />
I'm hoping someone here can help me here because I can't quite figure it out.<br />
<br />
With a tensioner pulley between two static pulleys, how much slack is removed from the belt for each unit movement of the tensioner?<br />
<br />
The specific application is a cambelt tensioner on an engine. I need to make sure I have enough reserve travel in the tensioner before I go a get a load skimmed off the head.<br />
<br />
From some doodles (below) I'm half convinced that moving the tensioner 1mm would pull 2mm slack from the belt, but I'm not sure. The doodle on the left is an exaggerated version of the one on the right.<br />
<br />
Any ideas chaps?<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b389/Punx0r/pulleys.gif" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7">The Brew Room</category>
			<dc:creator>Punx0r</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33297</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Miller Dialarc HFE problem</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33296&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 20:16:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi I just bought a Dialarc HFE through Ebay the guy said it was all ok and single phase, when I tried to fire it up the fan ran and the main...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I just bought a Dialarc HFE through Ebay the guy said it was all ok and single phase, when I tried to fire it up the fan ran and the main contactor buzzed.I pushed the contactor in with a screwdriver and got power out of the torch. On closer investigation the machine was plumbed in using the buzz bars to 415v. when I changed it to 240v it just blows the fuse and throws the trip out. At the moment I have got it rigged up on a plug top and normal house socket and 16amp breaker.I know this is not enough to use the welder with any great amps but i did expect it to light up and run the fan . Any Ideas before I take it to be repaired.Or take it back to where I bought it.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=51">Miller, Lincoln, Hobart</category>
			<dc:creator>weekendbodger</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33296</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>10,000 lb winch</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33295&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 20:12:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Was given this yesterday and wonder can anyone give me some info as to its use. Seems as though the centre grip turns by hand. 
 
 
Attachment 27858...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Was given this yesterday and wonder can anyone give me some info as to its use. Seems as though the centre grip turns by hand.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=27858" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 27858</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=27859" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 27859</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=27860" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 27860</a></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26">Tools, Materials and Techniques</category>
			<dc:creator>ytre</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33295</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>First Commission</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33294&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 20:01:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>speaking to a mate in work and shows him a photo of the weathervane, turns out his father in law is disabled and stuck in a wheelchair but enjoys...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>speaking to a mate in work and shows him a photo of the weathervane, turns out his father in law is disabled and stuck in a wheelchair but enjoys being out in the garden as much as he can,  The guys an avid Liverpool fan. He says do you think you could make something for him so put me thinking cap on and unfortunately it's another weathervane but shouldn't take me too long now as I have made one and am a bit better set up.<br />
ordered some tube and should end up in a similar style to my first one<br />
Norm</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=63"><![CDATA[Sculpture & Decorative]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Norm</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33294</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Wire speed intermittently pausing....</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33293&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 19:40:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Clarke 151TE: 
 
All was fine until: 
1) had to change swan neck (welded tip!) and  
2) changed up from mini to 5kg wire roll. 
 
It now pauses every...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Clarke 151TE:<br />
<br />
All was fine until:<br />
1) had to change swan neck (welded tip!) and <br />
2) changed up from mini to 5kg wire roll.<br />
<br />
It now pauses every few seconds....tried changing tension on spool and on the wire roller but to no avail...<br />
<br />
Any ideas?<br />
<br />
I thought perhaps change back to mini roll as the 5Kg feels &quot;too much&quot; for the motor..?????<br />
<br />
It also producing a lot of black around welds now too....<br />
<br />
Thanks for any pointers if you've experienced the same....<br />
<br />
Rob</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=29">Clarke</category>
			<dc:creator>DrRob</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33293</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Tungsten contamination/erosion when welding stainless</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33292&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 18:36:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>When welding stainless, generally 304 and 316, I have noticed lately that the tip of the tungsten gradually seems to go from a sharp point to more of...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>When welding stainless, generally 304 and 316, I have noticed lately that the tip of the tungsten gradually seems to go from a sharp point to more of a mushroom when welding.  When I start welding with the sharp point I get a beautiful weld, but as the end of tungsten starts to change, the weld pool starts to wander and I lose the nice fine ripples.  Material is generally 1.6 mm stainless with either a thoriated or multi-strike tungsten, 2.4mm dia.  Seems worse when on pulse, although the multi-strike lasts longer on pulse than the thoriated.  Typically I can get one weld round a 2&quot; pipe before I need to regrind.  Using Pure Argon (Air Liquide) and a gas lens.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=22">TIG Welding</category>
			<dc:creator>gatesy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33292</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How to check a one-button auto shade unit without using a welder?</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33291&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 17:58:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi gays, 
 
I’m a newbie here because I’ve just started the long way of welding studying. The first thing I bought for welding is a helmet, and I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi gays,<br />
<br />
I’m a newbie here because I’ve just started the long way of welding studying. The first thing I bought for welding is a helmet, and I don’t have a welder yet. The helmet is an old model of Speedglas. The tag on the helmet says that the model is LM 90230. It includes an old style auto dark unit that has only one ON/OFF button and doesn’t have LEDs or indicators at all. So the question is: how I could check if the unit works properly without using a welder? I was told I could turn a 100W incandescent lamp on and then rapidly place the helmet’s face against the lamp, so the glass should get darker in this case. I did that but with no success. Then I checked the batteries and they were OK. So please suggest what I should do next to check the unit? <br />
<br />
Many thanks,<br />
Alex</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=44">Welding Helmets and Safety Equipment</category>
			<dc:creator>WeldingBear</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33291</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Another Miller question</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33290&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 17:12:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have just got hold of a Miller Syncrowave 275. The story is it came from an auction house and the buyer of the lots took them to a scrap metal...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have just got hold of a Miller Syncrowave 275. The story is it came from an auction house and the buyer of the lots took them to a scrap metal place rather than do anythign with them.<br />
   There was this Syncrowave and a big Dial arc which was in the skip, complete with watercooler by the time I got there.:mad:<br />
<br />
    I don't have to pay for it until I have checked if it works although I have been told that it was working fine. I got the panels off it today and it is reasonably clean inside. It was serviced 9 months ago going by the tags on it.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac221/92834Ford/IMG_5044.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac221/92834Ford/IMG_5045.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac221/92834Ford/IMG_5046.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac221/92834Ford/IMG_5047.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac221/92834Ford/IMG_5048.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac221/92834Ford/IMG_5049.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
    As it had probably been man handled out of the back of a van, there was a couple of relays lying inside. It was obvious to me though where they had come from so I stuck them back in. <br />
      There is a dodgy looking connection on the thing that looks like the hf generator.<br />
     Also, the &quot;electroslope&quot; panel is all bare. Grommets etc in the front look factory? The wiring is there for it all ,  but tied off as if unused.<br />
   Luckily,my spare torch fits it although the plug for the switch is totally different.<br />
     I don't want to have to spend out on parts just to check it's working, only to find it isn't!<br />
<br />
     <br />
   Opinions on best way to proceed and/or any contacts for spare secondhand parts greatly appreciated.<br />
<br />
     Ross.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=51">Miller, Lincoln, Hobart</category>
			<dc:creator>german8rcoupe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33290</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>im getting a new toy :)</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33289&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 14:36:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm getting a pillar drill this weekend hopefully, it isnt the crap that is produced today, im getting a meddings pillar drill! i cant wait to get...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm getting a pillar drill this weekend hopefully, it isnt the crap that is produced today, im getting a meddings pillar drill! i cant wait to get it. It is the first machine for the workshop, next thing will be portamig (well i hope so anyway!). Photos will be coming your way soon!<br />
Cheers James<br />
<br />
Ps. With regards to the title, I do know workshop machinery is dangerous and I will not treat it as a toy. Thats what the Xbox is for!!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26">Tools, Materials and Techniques</category>
			<dc:creator>Water skier 16</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33289</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Telwin 150/1 telmig turbo</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33288&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 12:10:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i have been looking for a gas mig welder mainly for welding car panels. 
 
i have found this: 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i have been looking for a gas mig welder mainly for welding car panels.<br />
<br />
i have found this:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/mig-welder-set-up/102412588" target="_blank">http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/mi...t-up/102412588</a><br />
<br />
does anyone know if this will be suitable.  done bits of welding before but looking to use this to learn properly.<br />
<br />
i am also planning to use it for some fabricating.  like making up stands for rotating body shell and fabricating some floor mounted brackets for an electric winch i have.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
David</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=19">Buying a Welder</category>
			<dc:creator>dave_39</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33288</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Panel colour change</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33286&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 11:27:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi there, 
 
I have a pair of used wings that I need to spray for my E30. They are red and I need to spray them black, so just need a colour change....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there,<br />
<br />
I have a pair of used wings that I need to spray for my E30. They are red and I need to spray them black, so just need a colour change.<br />
<br />
The wings themselves are perfect and don't need any work on them.<br />
<br />
On previously paint jobs if I want to do a colour change, I sand the panel down with 400, high build, sand with 600, then basecoat and finally lacquer.<br />
<br />
I have been told that it is not necessary to have to reprimer the panel if the paint is good and doesn't need any work.<br />
<br />
How would I go about in spraying the panels? I was thinking of doing the following:<br />
Grey scotchbrite with sanding paste<br />
Basecoat<br />
Lacquer</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=41">Paint and Metal Coatings</category>
			<dc:creator>andeep</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33286</guid>
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			<title>springs</title>
			<link>http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33285&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 10:09:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
 
I'm making a hydraulic press and have two spring to return the bottle jack 
the problem is I would like to put more of a bend on the hooks at...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
<br />
I'm making a hydraulic press and have two spring to return the bottle jack<br />
the problem is I would like to put more of a bend on the hooks at the ends<br />
 of the springs.Would i heat and bend the hooks to the require shape and <br />
and then temper the ends agin,at what heat should i retemper the ends to stop them stretching out?<br />
<br />
Regards Gary</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26">Tools, Materials and Techniques</category>
			<dc:creator>mgarym</dc:creator>
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